The Burning Binsar

This article discusses the mythology linked to the Binsar forest, the Kumaon deity Golu Dev, and Binsar’s connections with Vijayalakshmi Pandit and Mukti Dutta. It also highlights the recurring fires in Binsar that are ravaging this magnificent area.

When I first time heard about Binsar

I first heard about Binsar, after my terrible grilling by Club Mahindra marketing team when I went to their sales office to collect a free voucher that I had apparently won in a lottery.

Summoning all my Taurean tenacity, I managed to resist their persistent attempts to sell me a Club Mahindra membership. The memory of their resigned yet irritated expressions as they handed over the voucher remains vivid even after many years.

Determined to make use of the vouchers we had ‘won’ at the cost of an entire evening, we planned a trip to Binsar. Despite my firm intention to use them, circumstances prevented us, and the vouchers eventually expired.

KMVN Binsar

For the planned vacation to Kumaon, the research to know more about Binsar and the available accommodation there, made me realize that the ‘Paisa Vasool’ place to stay in Binsar is KMVN.

I checked the availability of rooms at KMVN, but it was completely booked by that time. Our taxi operator, Mr Jaggu, consoled me that it was not a big deal as Binsar is close to Deenapani and we could visit Binsar from there.

Fires in Binsar – Result of economic imbalances?

A few days before our journey, I came across an article in the Indian Express that described the picturesque Binsar. However, the main emphasis was on the recurring fires in the Binsar forest.

The author discussed the disparities in economic growth between urban and rural areas, asserting that the forest fires were deliberately set by discontented villagers protesting the diversion of funds intended for their development. Although I remained skeptical, his argument piqued my curiosity.

Deenapani to Binsar

In the preceding article, I described our journey to Deenapani. We had planned to head to Binsar upon our arrival at Deenapani. Eager for the visit, we all took a brief rest and, as scheduled, were prepared for the drive to Binsar.

Binsar is twenty-three kilometers from Deenapani, yet it took us approximately forty-five minutes to reach the forest entry point. By the time we arrived, it was already four o’clock, and the forest guards were adamant that our vehicle had to leave by 5:30. The entry fee for the forest area of Binsar was steep, leaving us uncertain whether to proceed or postpone the visit for another day. In the end, we chose to enter.

Mythological legend about Binsar

Binsar, situated in the heart of Kumaon, was the summer capital of Chand dynasty from seventh/eighth century onward.

These days it comprises of fifty square km of protected area on a mountain, rising about 2310 meters above sea level.

The name Binsar is a British adaptation of Bineshwar, which is among the various names attributed to Lord Shiva. The bulbous stone temple of Bineshwar Mahadev, nestled within the forest, is held in high esteem by the local populace who believe it possesses the ability to induce rainfall.

This forest has been deemed sacred since the era of the mythological Saptrishis, the seven sages after whom the Great Bear (Ursa Major) constellation is named. According to legend, the Saptrishis meditated in this forest, and to this day, that area is referred to as ‘Satkhol’.

Binsar and Vijay Lakshmi Pandit

Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit, the sister of Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru, was not only the owner of the famous Khali Estate in Binsar but also frequented it. In those days, with no road leading from the railway head at Kathgodam to Binsar, she and her family would journey here on horseback, camping along the way over several days.

Drive from forest entry point to the top of the forest – the zero point

We ascended to the mountain’s summit via a winding road that snakes up the terrain, cutting through a lush forest brimming with oaks, pines, and rhododendrons.

The potential to encounter a wild animal kept us vigilant, but ultimately, we didn’t see any. We drove up to the summit, reaching zero point. Had it not been a cloudy day, we were informed that the views of the Himalayas would have been spectacular.

Water harvesting at Binsar – Zero Point

It’s disheartening to see many traditional water harvesting methods fall into disuse nowadays. Therefore, it was a delightful surprise to discover a water harvesting system at the forest rest house located at zero point. Subsequently, we learned that in Kumaon, it’s fairly common to encounter rainwater conservation systems. This is indeed Commendable!

Trekking in Binsar

Time was scarce, and trekking seemed out of reach. However, for Jaishree, mountains are synonymous with trekking. She firmly believes that trekking is the sole means to engage with nature, to create indelible memories, and to inhale its splendor. She expressed her dissatisfaction, saying, “This visit feels almost insignificant. What’s the enjoyment in visiting a beautiful mountain forest if we merely drive through it, without walking through its dense vegetation?”

At that moment, our driver, Dewanji, suggested, “Why not trek down from here?” Then, pointing downward, he indicated that we could rendezvous at the natural water reservoir we had spotted on our drive up.

I believe none of us could discern the reservoir where his finger pointed from that distance. It’s a talent unique to those who dwell in the hills.

The suggestion invigorated everyone; the kids, in particular, were thrilled at the idea. Rachit has inherited his mother’s passion for trekking. Ultimately, an assertive nod from Vinodji, my brother-in-law, led us all to joyfully abandon our vehicles and begin our trek downhill.

Strolling along the well-trodden path in the lush Binsar forest was an enjoyable experience. Being aware of the panthers residing in the forest added an element of fear, prompting us to remain vigilant and trek as a group.

We occasionally glimpsed red rhododendron flowers, but as the season was nearing its end, we missed the spectacle of the forest ablaze with these crimson blooms.

Turpentine oil collection in Binsar

Descending the path, we observed cones attached to the pine trees for resin collection. The pine bark had been incised in a ‘V’ pattern, funneling the resin into the cones. This resin, a dark green and highly viscous liquid, should not come into contact with skin as it is challenging to wash off, even with thorough cleaning. The harvested resin is processed to produce turpentine oil. Turpentine oil is used as a solvent for thinning oil-based paints and for producing varnishes.

We collected a few pine flowers there and walked ahead.

Shortly, a gentle drizzle began to fall. It seemed that Bineshwar Mahadev’s revered ability to summon rain was manifesting. The walk through the forest became enchantingly serene, as the raindrops washed the dust from the leaves, enhancing the beauty of our idyllic surroundings.

The leaves appeared freshly painted in shades of green. The breeze carried the fragrance of damp soil. While we relished the light rain, we also quickened our pace, eager to arrive at our predetermined destination before the rain intensified.

Finally, we arrived and disembarked at the exact location our driver had spotted from the zero point. how was it possible? Perhaps all the treks from the summit indeed lead to Rome. 🙂

In Hills, trek to reach faster

Our vehicles had not arrived by that time. This is an added element of excitement to hill trekking; often, even a leisurely walk on these jungle paths outpaces vehicles by a considerable margin. Fortunately, the vehicles arrived shortly after, and we quickly settled into our seats, watching the moderate rainfall through the windows. As we continued our drive, the rain ceased, as if it had only fallen in that specific area of the forest to enhance the lush, green vista.

The local deity of Kumaon – The Golu Devta

On our return journey, we passed by an ancient temple dedicated to Golu Devta. The local deity, known as ‘Dana Golu,’ is believed to dwell in the forest.

Legend has it that he manifests as a white horseman, guiding those who are lost and protecting the inhabitants. I’ve come to understand that the average Kumaoni has little time for daily religious practices due to the challenging hilly terrain and a general scarcity of water. Nevertheless, they hold a deep emotional connection to their Kuldevi or Kuldevta, typically the principal deity in the village temple.

Conversations with my Kumaoni colleagues at work revealed that visits to these village temples carry great religious significance for them.

The village deities of Kumaon

The village deities of Kumaon behave like human beings. They win or lose battles, have joint family system and are offended by trifles.

The powerful rulers of the Middle Ages, the folk heroes who come to the relief of the common people when called upon, are passed into myths as Devtas and have been incorporated into local divinity. It is similar in my hometown, Udaipur in Rajsathan.

The meat-eating and non-meat-eating Gods of Kumaon

The Kumaoni local Gods are further classified as meat-eating and non-meat-eating Gods that signifies that some accept blood sacrifices, and some don’t.

To illustrate their prevalence, it could be suggested that in about a thousand villages there are around ten thousand temples of these Devi-Devta (God and Goddesses).

It has seeded a sub-culture subsisting on a parallel tradition of fairs, melas, customs and practices that are peculiar to Kumaon. Among these God and Goddesses Golu Devta, God of Justice, is a pan-Kumaon folk hero.

Golu Deva – the supreme judge of Kumaon

Kumaonis have so much faith on Golu Devta’s justice that when every other system of justice fails them, they seek His divine intervention. The victims, who can’t visit the temple physically, write letters to bring matters to His notice. On the delivery of fair justice and fulfillment of the desire the obliged people hang bells to show their gratitude.

Bells – in the temple of Golu dev

The selection of bells as a symbol of gratitude intrigues me. Perhaps, there will come a day when the widespread dominance of injustice over justice is recognized, and all the bells will chime in unison, creating a deafening sound that will frighten the perpetrators of injustice. This clamor will serve as an admonition for them to reform, and the ancient adage will resound…
यदा यदा ही धर्मस्य, ग्लानिर भवति भारता
अभ्युत्तनाम अधर्मस्य, तदतमानाम सर्जमी अहम

Daydreaming! Hallucination under the influence of a heavy dose of Bollywood movies.

Why is Golu Devta considered as the God of justice?

Legend goes that his father was a local king who married his stunningly beautiful and intelligent mother.

In due time, she got pregnant and gave birth to him. The other queens, who were jealous of king’s special regard and love for her, conspired and placed a stone in the newborn’s place. They put the child in a basket and let it flow into the river.

When the king came to know that his beloved queen has given birth to a stone he severed all communications to her. The floating basket and the child reached a fisherman. He adopted the child and raised him like his own son.

One day, the King was near the fisherman’s dwelling. Upon hearing this, young Golu brought a wooden horse to the river and attempted to make it drink water.

Observing this, the King chuckled at the child’s naivety and explained that wooden horses cannot drink water. Without missing a beat, Golu retorted, “If a woman can give birth to a stone, then wooden horses can drink water too.”

This sharp response made the King painfully aware of the injustice he had done to his favored queen. He immediately went back and initiated an investigation, which uncovered the truth. The King punished the guilty queens and crowned the boy, who became known as Gwalla Devata.

As a ruler, Golu Dev proved adept at discerning the innocent from the guilty, earning the trust of the people and ascending to divine status.

The first signs of forest fires

There is nothing as pleasant as driving through a forest just after rains. But then there were occasional eyesores, big trees gutted by the forest fires and the smoke rising from the various part of the forest.

Our driver explained that it is common to put fire in the forest after autumn. Otherwise, the leaves that fall on the ground, does not allow grass to grow and creates the serious problem of pasture for livestock. The fire is started from the top of mountain and is allowed to recede from top to the bottom.

In this manner it burns only the leaves on the ground. This fire never reaches the stem of a tree to cause high flames. These are controlled fires.

The fire of greed burning the jungles of Binsar

Uncontrolled forest fires are often sparked by the careless disposal of beedis or cigarettes, though many are intentionally set. Binsar has repeatedly been a victim of such deliberate acts. At the dawn of the 20th century, it succumbed to deforestation. Initially, coal kilns ravaged its ancient oaks, followed by the felling of trees for timber.

The production of turpentine oil, while beneficial to humans, spelled disaster for the pine trees. The highly flammable resin produced by these trees makes them particularly susceptible to fire.

There is sufficient in the world for man’s need but not for man’s greed. – M.K. Gandhi.
And, then there is no end to Human Greed.

There was a time when the government also played a role in harming this forest. When Uttaranchal was part of Uttar Pradesh, the UP Government proposed an ambitious plan to transform Binsar’s main high ridge into a tourist complex, featuring hotels, shopping centers, and entertainment malls.

Killing of wild animals in Binsar

Similar to its flora, the wildlife of Binsar has also fallen victim to poaching, and at times, with the villagers’ assistance, who perceive these wild animals as threats to their livestock. This situation is exacerbated by diminishing habitats, leading to conflicts between wildlife and humans. Moreover, without a substantial policy in place, the compensation villagers receive for livestock lost to wild predators is insignificant.

The driver from another vehicle recounted an experience. While navigating the hilly terrain, he encountered a tiger blocking his path. Overcome with anxiety and fear, he was unable to continue driving. He chose to stop and wait for the tiger to pass. Later, when he shared this event to a colleague, the fellow driver was shocked by his fearful reaction and suggested that he should have struck the tiger, arguing that a dead tiger could be highly valuable and lamenting the missed chance.

In Bandhavgarh recently, there have been at least two incidents where these majestic felines were struck by vehicles, one involving tourists and the other, purportedly, the forest department. It becomes challenging to protect these creatures when murders are masked as road accidents and when greed blinds humanity.

I liken the situation to that of the Maldharis, who share their space with lions and, despite the loss of their cattle, are in fact the greatest protectors of these big cats. Hats off to the Maldharis for their resilience and unwavering commitment to preserving our heritage.

Forest Fires in Binsar

After reaching Deenapani, around dusk, we all went over a watch tower in the village. From there, the eye-catching but painful sight was of the fire in the forest.

There were also news reports in the local newspaper of protests by villagers over the inability of forest department to control those fires.

I witnessed a murder on drive towards Jageshwar

I want to share another incident from the same trip. While traveling to Jageshwar, at a bend in the road shrouded in darkness, I noticed an individual smoking and apparently waiting for something. He was conspicuous as there was no one else around. Subsequently, I saw a tree ablaze. I suspect that what I saw was a murder.

It reminds me of the beautiful lines of Rabindra Nath Tagore’s couplet on tree:

लकड़हारे की कुल्हाड़ी ने वृक्ष से मून्ठ की याचना की,
वृक्ष ने वो दे दी |

Mukti Datta – a ray of hope

Even with all these negative incidents, I feel there is a hope. Mukti Datta singlehandedly halted the UP Government’s grand plan of destruction. She took the cause of protecting Binsar and managed to persuade the Government to notify Binsar a sanctaury.

Also, I wish that what is generally believed about Binsar turns out true, “Should anyone take away anything belonging to the God or his worshipers and avenging spirit and conscience compels him to restore twenty folds”.

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