Chittorgarh Fort : A Treasure Trove of History

This series is about my visit to the Chittorgarh Fort and the history and the monuments on the fort.

“यह है अपना राजपूताना, नाज़ इसे तलवारों पे,
इसने सारा जीवन काटा बर्छी तीर कमानो पे,
यह प्रताप का वतन पला है आज़ादी के नारों पे,
कूद पड़ी थी यहाँ हज़ारों पद्‍मिनियाँ अंगारों पे,
बोले रही है कण-कण से क़ुर्बानी राजस्थान की,
इस मिट्टी से तिलक करो यह मिट्टी है बलिदान की”

“This is our Rajputana, it is proud of its glittering swords,
It has spent all its life with spears, arrows and bows
This land of Paratap has grown listening to the vows of freedom
It has seen thousands of Padminis jumping into sacred fires,
Every grain of its soil is telling the stories of sacrifices,
Smear this sand on your forehead, for this earth is of Martyrs

Indian national poet Pradeep not only penned down these patriotic, inspiring lyrical stanzas, but he also lent his silken voice to this melodious song and took generations of children to Bharat darshan – of various places in the country.

Each and every line of this pleasing song is dipped in patriotism and reminds us of our brave ancestors. This song was filmed in the Hindi movie “Jaagriti”

About the Chittorgarh Fort

Chittorgarh preceded Udaipur as the seat of Mewar rulers. It was the strongest bastion of Rajput resistance against Mughals.

This fort is on top of a 180 meter high segment of Aravali hills that rises abruptly from the surrounding plains. It is about 1350 feet above sea level and is around 5 Km long and 1 Km wide.

Decision to take no guide for the Fort

It was my second visit to this Fort. At Chittorgarh bus stand, I climbed on a tempo going to the fort.

Very soon the driver realized that I was a tourist and offered to take me around the fort. Gently, but firmly, I said “No” to him. I could sense that he was not happy. Who cares! The fort of Chittor was calling me and I did not want anyone else to share my very rare ‘all-alone-status’.

Chittorgarh Fort – An epitome of Rajput Gallantry

The sprawling hilltop fort of Chittorgarh epitomizes the heroic brave ideals of Rajput gallantry.

For them honor was always most important, even more important than their lives. When a defeat was imminent, a huge pyre was prepared on the fort grounds. The male inhabitants of the fort then watched their wives, sisters, mothers and young kids committing johar by jumping into and willingly burning themselves alive.

Men then smeared ash from the sacred funeral pyre over their bodies, donned the saffron robes of martyrdom, opened the gates of the fort and rode with unprecedented ferocity to a certain death on the battlefields below.

These valiant men knew that there was no turning back. Even if they won, there was no meaning left in living anymore. Kill as many of them as possible – was the only thought that lingered.

The uncompromising policy of death than surrender, as followed by Sisodia rulers of Chittorgarh, made the history of this fort replete with tales of extreme loyalty, bravery and sacrifices.

History and monuments on Chittorgarh Fort – The First Gate of the Chittorgarh Fort – Pada Pole

Ascent to this fort begins at Pada pol. Pol in Rajasthani means a huge gate meant for entering a particular part of city or fort and Pada means a young buffalo. Once a gory battle resulted in a river of blood. In that flowing blood young buffalo came floating near this gate. Thereafter this gate of the fort was called Pada Pol.

The ramp leading to the fort is further interspersed with six ornate gates, cenotaphs and a few temples.

History and monuments on Chittorgarh Fort – The Second Gate of the Fort – The Bhairon Pole

The second gate of the fort is Bhairon pol. On the right side of Bhairon pol are the Chattris(cenotaphs) marking the spot where Rathore Jaimal of Badnor and his clan’s man Kalla met their fate. The first four pillared chattri is of Kalla and the second six pillared chhattri is that of Jaimal.

The Legend of Jaimal and Kalla

In 1568, Akbar laid siege of Chittorgarh with a large army under his command. At that time Maharana Udai Singh, father of Maharana Pratap, was the ruler of Mewar.

A victory against the massive Mughal army was almost impossible. So, the Rajput nobles decided that Maharana will escape to nearby forest and continue the fight against Mughals. Jaimal was appointed the Army chief and he was given the task to defend the fort.

As planned Maharana UdaiSingh left the fort with a few trusted sardars from a secret passage. The remaining Rajputs continued to resist Mughal invasion.

Siege continued for three months. Mughals used cannons to make holes in the impregnable fort walls in day times. However, to their utmost surprise, the portions of the wall they destroyed in the day were promptly repaired in the night. They could not get any advantage for three months!

However, one night when Jaimal was getting a segment of the fort wall repaired, Akbar recognized him from the lights of the flame and ordered to fire at him. The canon ball struck the target and left Jaimal crippled.

On that night, the broken wall could not be repaired. It was obvious that Mughals would be able to invade the fort the very next day. So Johar was committed in the fort that night.

The fort of Chittorgarh was sacked thrice and all three times it resulted in thousands of women committing johar. This was the third and the last johar to take place in the fort.

Next day, the fort gates were opened for the final battle. The small Rajput force was no match to the huge Mughal army. Still the Mughals met stiff resistance from the gutsy Rajputs under the inspiring leadership of Jaimal.

The canon ball left Jaimal incapable of riding a horse. Yet he, sitting on the back of his clan’s man Kalla, led the Rajput sena. Before dying as martyrs, the rapidly moving swords of Jaimal, Kalla and other brave Rajputs inflicted major damage to the Mughals.

Foundation of Udaipur

Meanwhile, in the forest, Maharana Udai Singh felt that Chittorgarh was prone to enemy attacks. He then laid the foundation of a new city Udaipur at the shore of Lake Pichhola and shifted the capital of Mewar from Chittorgarh to Udaipur.

After this defeat Chittorgarh remained with Mughals till 1616. In 1616 it was ceded back to Rajputs but the royal family never settled there again.

History and monuments on Chittorgarh Fort – The Third and the Fourth Gate of the Fort – The Hanuman and Ganesh Pol

Having seen the first two pol , on the ramp on which the tempo was running, I went on to see Hanuman Pol and Ganesh Pol, the third and the fourth gates respectively. These gates are named so because of Hanumanji’s and Ganeshji’s temple in the vicinity.

History and monuments on Chittorgarh fort: The Fifth, Sixth and the Seventh Gate of the Chittorgarh Fort

Fifth gate is called Jodla Pol (a pole in the pair) because it is very near to the sixth gate. There is a small temple of Laxmanji at the sixth gate and so it is known as Laxman pol. The seventh gate is known as the Ram Pol. Incidentally, Sisodia rulers of Mewar considered themselves as Suryavanshi and the descendants of Lord Shree Ram.

The Legend of the Patta of Kelwa

Near Ram pol there is a cenotaph of a young Rajput named Patta, who belonged to Kelwa (a small town situated at around 32 Km from Chittorgarh). At the time of battle he was only 16 years old and got just married.

The night before the final battle, he saw his mother and young wife committing johar. On the fateful day his sword swung fiercely, cutting Mughals in large numbers. At one time he looked uncontrollable and invincible.

A mad elephant was then pushed forth to control him. The elephant seized him in his trunk and slapped him several times on the earth killing him instantly. It is believed that the heroics of this young warrior impressed even Akbar. The cenotaph was erected by Akbar to commemorate him!

At the top of the Fort

Time was limited and the sun was at its full glory. I reached the top in the tempo itself.

One day I would like to walk on the ramp of this fort to get a real feel of difficulty to access it. The tempo driver stopped at the ticket booth and suggested me to buy a ticket. One guide at the ticket booth had to actually argue to elicit a free brochure of the fort from the ticket seller to me.

My first destination was Fateh Memorial Museum. As I was getting down, the tempo driver suggested the directions to cover the most significant parts of the fort in the little time I had at my disposal.

History and Monuments on the Chittorgarh Fort – The Fateh Memorial Museum

This palace was built by Maharana Fateh Singh in 1920 and is the most recent construction on the fort. It was later converted to a museum. Usual weaponry, armors, photographs were displayed in the museum.

A few photographs of the sunset from the fort were really good. I envy the photographers who had such liberal amount of time (time … so elusively precious and little) and opportunities to capture those beautiful moments.

I liked the architecture of this simple yet elegant palace-museum. In the courtyard, there was ample shade and sunlight. A small statue of Maharana Fateh Singh looked brilliant in that shade and light arrangement.

I wanted to take a picture. When I asked for permission, it was denied. “No photography” rule becomes very strict when a person asks for permissions. I repented asking.

“Pedantry and mastery are opposite attitudes toward rules. To apply a rule to the letter, rigidly, unquestioningly, in cases where it fits and in cases where it does not fit, is pedantry… To apply a rule with natural ease, with judgment, noticing the cases where it fits, and without ever letting the words of the rule obscure the purpose of the action or the opportunities of the situation, is mastery. -George Polya, professor of mathematics (1887-1985)”.

I don’t see any harm in photographing the courtyard. However, most of us have pedantic attitude towards rule, and here I was expecting mastery from the caretaker. My expectations were ridiculously high. Afterthought, I have seen that in many cases money converts pedantic attitude into mastery with ease 🙂

Meeting a good Guide on the Chittorgarh Fort

When I came out of the museum and was trying to recall which way the tempo driver suggested me to go, a person standing in a small group called me and told me how to proceed.

He added that he heard the “kind” tempo driver telling me the way. It was just opposite of the way the fort should be covered and hence he felt the need to correct him.

A person standing next to him added that he is a good guide and I could take his services to visit fort. It embarrassed the guide. He clarified that he understands and respects my desire to roam alone and it was not his real intention to call me. I thanked him and moved in the direction suggested by him.

Should I call it human chemistry or karmas of previous births that unknown people ‘like you or dislike you’ ‘help you or cheat you’, without any of your own contributions?

History and Monuments on the Chittorgarh Fort – The Kumbha Mahal

Impressive Kumbha Mahal is situated just near Fateh Memorial Museum. This palace was built in 13th century. Maharana Kumbha rebuilt it in 15th century and after that it was known as Kumbha Mahal. There are two imposing doors to enter the palace and they are known as “Badee Pol” and “Tripolia Pol”

The Most Powerful Maharana of Mewar?

Was it Maharana Pratap!

Sometimes I wonder who among the rulers of Mewar, was most powerful. Was it Maharana Pratap? We all are aware of his defiant resistance to Akbar.

Was it Maharana Sanga!

Or, was it Maharana Sanga or Sangram Singh? He was once very close to rule Delhi. It was his miscalculation that Babur, being a foreigner, will leave Delhi after plundering and looting it, that cost him the throne of Delhi.

Was it Maharana Kumbha!

I read in detail about Maharana Kumbhakaran or Kumbha recently, and I was forced to include his name also in this list.

It is difficult to conclude who was the most powerful and accomplished Maharana of Mewar because of different time periods and circumstances they ruled in, but it is sure that Maharana Kumbha was among the one to rule Mewar for the longest peaceful reign.

He encouraged literature, architecture and art and gave golden years to this region.

The Architecture of Kumbha Mahal

Though this palace is in ruins, but it still gives insight into the architecture that flourished under Rajput rulers. The zenana can be recognized by jali screen. Places that are worth seeing here are Sooraj Gokhara, Zenana Mahal, Deewan-e-aam, Treasury and a Shiv temple.

Like this fort, this palace also witnessed events that are incomparable to any other place in the world.

The Turmoil in Chittorgarh After the Death of Maharana Sanga

In this Palace Maharana Udai Singh, father of Maharana Pratap and the youngest son of Maharana Sangram Singh, was born. In the history of Mewar, it was a period of trouble and turmoil. The eldest son of Maharaja Sangram Singh, Bhojraj, got wounded in a battle and later died. So, after Maharana Sangram Singh’s death his second son Vikramaditya was made the Maharana.

The Legend of Meerabai

These ruined walls are witness to the incident when Maharana Vikramaditya sent a bowl of poison to Meerabai doubting her character. Meera was late prince Bhojraj’s young widow.

She remained unruffled in the face of this false accusation and accepted the bowl of poison; she offered it to Lord Krishna and drank it as His “Prasad”. The poison turned into nectar and she survived.

Chittorgarh fort is blessed to hear the melodious, devotional songs of this saint queen.

The reign of Banveer – The illegitimate Son of Maharana Sanga

Continuing about Vikramaditya and that period, Vikramditya’s arrogance and puerile behavior infuriated and alienated many loyal Rajput sardars. Within a year or two of his coronation as Maharana, Rana Sanga’s elder brother’s illegitimate son Banveer removed him from the throne and put him in the jail.

Banveer was even more arrogant, quick-tempered and cruel. He was very sensitive about his lineage and punished anyone who tried to cast aspersions.

The Legend of Panna Dhai

The youngest son of Maharana Sanga, Udai Singh, was nurtured by a wet nurse named Panna Dhai. She had a young son, Chandan, of the same age as that of Udai. Both of them were close and used to spend most of their time together.

One night Banveer first killed Vikramaditya and then rushed in these palaces to kill Udai Singh – the last legal heir of the seat of Mewar.

Udai and Chandan both were sleeping at that time. Banveer entered inside the bedroom with the fresh blood dripping from his sword and asked Panna Dhai about Udai.

Panna Dhai had to take a decision in split seconds and what happened afterwards is unprecedented in world history. The loyal nurse made the extreme sacrifice and pointed towards her own son Chandan.

Immediately, her son Chandan was brutally murdered, in front of her eyes, . She did not get any time to cry for her beloved son. In the world history, it would be difficult to find an example where a mother might have been given such a difficult choice and where she had made such an extreme sacrifice.

Panna Dhai is indeed an icon of loyalty. Maharana Udai Singh was then smuggled to Kumbhalgarh fort and remained in care of Panna Dhai.

The first jauhar, committed in this fort by Maharani Padmini and others, also took place in the courtyard of this palace.

The Jain Temple – Sat Bees Deori

Adjacent to Fateh Prakash Memorial, is a 15th century Jain temple Sat-Bees Deori because of 27 shrines in it.

Last time the backyard of this temple was the place where, Jaishree and I, had sat for a long time after visiting the fort. It had an impressive view of the ruins of southern part of the fort. This time lack of time forced me to give it a miss.

History and monuments on Chittorgarh Fort: Kumbhaswami Temple and the Meera Mandir

My next destination was beautiful Kumbhaswami temple and the Meera Mandir. Kumbhaswami temple was originally dedicated to Lord Vishnu’s Varah incarnation, but it was destroyed during foreign attacks. Maharana Kumbha rebuilt it in 1433-68. The pillars of earlier eighth century structure have been reused in that renovation. Its tall Shikhara and the roof was added during Rana Kumbha’s time. The outer wall and the Garbhgrih still carry the earlier foundation of the eighth century.

At the entrance there is an attractive black stone statue of Garud in reverence to Lord Vishnu.

Garud and my Irish Friend Gearoid

It took me back to the memories of my trip to Ireland. In 2004, I worked in an Irish company Parthus.

The first person with whom I interacted most in that company was Gearoid (his name was pronounced as Garud). When I told him about Garud, he requested me to bring a small statue of Garud.

At that time I could not even recall how Garud looks like, and I was clueless as to where to find a statue of Garud. I think most of the readers will be like me and for them it will be difficult to recall how Garud is portrayed in sculptures.

To be continued in the series..

Read More about Meerabai – the Saint, Poet and the Rebel Queen of Chittorgarh Fort here

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