- The abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri
- The Imperial Harem Complex of Fatehpur Sikri
- Spiritual abode at Fatehpur Sikri
In this article, we would walk in the Mosque Complex of Fatehpur Sikri that houses the dargah of Salim Chisti, Jami Masjid, and the Buland Darwaja.
Fatehpur Sikri has all three flavors- Rajsik, Tamsik and Satvik. I covered Rajsik (Royal) attributes of it in my first article, there were shades of Tamsik attributes in the second article; this last and the final article is devoted to the Satvik flavor of Sikri.
Moving away from the Lower Haramsara, we also moved out of the Royal complex. After removing our shoes we entered the Mosque complex through Shahi Darwaza which is 13.2 meter wide and 18.6 meter high; this was the same door which Akbar used to join the congregational prayers.
The Zenana Rauza at Mosque Complex of Fatehpur Sikri
Tourists need to pay entrance fee for Royal and Public complex, but the Mosque complex is free.
We passed through “Zenana Rauza”- tomb of royal family and then were shown a small tunnel and our guide claimed that the tunnel was going till Agra & was used by Akbar in case of emergencies. As there was no official notice, that claim fell on deaf ears. In most of the forts and Palaces there are such claims, whose authenticity is difficult to prove.
Jami Masjid, Fatehpur Sikri
The Mosque Complex is located on the highest point on the ridge of Fatehpur Sikri.
Jami Masjid is the most conspicuous structure of this vast complex. It is also the largest structure in the complex and took around five years to build. It covers an area of 542 feet by 438 feet. It consists of a wide open-courtyard with pillared-walkway on its three sides, with the sanctuary at the western end, facing Mecca.
The vast open-courtyard gives a feeling of spaciousness and along with it on the parapet walls are arranged small-domed kiosks creating a pleasing effect.
It is believed that there were times when Emperor Akbar himself swept the floor of the mosque and it was from here the declaration that gave him unlimited powers in religious matters was done.
This mosque is also known as Dargah mosque, as both the tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti and the mosque are in same mosque complex.
Dargah of Sheikh Salim Chisti
The elegant superb white marble Dargah of Sheikh Salim Chisti is in the north side of the mosque complex. After having an eyeful of the vast cloistered courtyard of the Mosque Complex, we entered the Dargah wearing skull-caps provided at the entrance.
The lattice screens (Jalis) in this tomb are among the most beautiful and intricate in the world with striking designs done in marble. Traditionally, jalis have been put to the myriad of usages – as veil between the women of the elite families and the outside world, to help modulate the temperature inside the chambers, to direct the sunlight at specific angles on tombs, their function evolved depending on the context they appeared.
An interesting incident that is also defined as the origin story of the Jali: According to a famous passage in the Koran, once the Prophet Muhammad flees to Medina to escape his enemies. He takes refuge in a cave in Jabal Thawr. As his rivals close in, the God sends one of his trusted soldier to protect Him. Blessed by the divine hand the humble creature weaves a thick web to cover the entrance, misleading the pursuers to believe that its empty and thereby saving the Prophet’s life. This some believes is the origin story of the Jali, the intricate lattice work decor associated with mosques, palaces and cenotaphs.
The patterns in these Jaali repertoires have immutable meanings “The stars and hexagon shapes point to a celestially inspired language”. The repeating patterns create an illusion of infinity, which in turn refers to the divinity.
The Dargah still attracts many childless women, who come here to pray for offspring, tying threads of hope on to the marble screens, just like Akbar who came to the saint praying for a son four centuries ago.
Sufism in India
The complex still resonates with the profound reverence to the Sufi Saint, before whom the mighty Mughals also bowed and prayed along with simple peasants.
Sufis in medieval india were divided into three main orders – Chistis (Popular in Delhi and the Doab), Suharwardi (Of Sind) and Firdausi of Bihar.
Sheikh Salimuddin Chisti belonged to the influential Chisti sect of Sufis. Sufism was introduced in India by the arrival of the revered saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti to Ajmer in tenth century.
His charity and generosity won him many disciples among both Hindu and Muslim population, and they lovingly started to call him – Khwaja Gareeb Nawaz.
While crossing Ajmer, during my onward journeys to Udaipur (my hometown) in train, I have heard people singing devotional songs praising Khwaja Gareebnawaj with such faith and fervor that it is difficult to take your eyes and ears away from the soulful recital.
Who are Sufis?
Lexicographers believe that the word Sufi is derived from either of the two words – Safa (pure) or Suf (wool). A scholar has well summarized Sufism as the divine path or religious philosophy guided by mendicants with pure soul often wearing flowing woolen robes.
The teachings of Sufism are based on the knowledge imparted by Prophet Mohammed himself, as Ilm-i-Batin.
It believes in seeking divine experience by absolute absorption in the contemplation of God, purging out evil traits of the character, making ones inner self as pure as possible.
Sufism has strong emphasis on Guru-Shishya bond. It believes that true knowledge could be attained or experienced only in the company of a true teacher. The Guru directs his disciple to gain humbleness and tolerance by working for and helping weak and needy for many years.
The Sufi Saints detached themselves from society, lived in seclusion, practiced subjugation of desires by self-denials and self-disciplines; they followed dervish practices like rapturous singing and dancing reaching spiritual ecstasy and thus distancing themselves totally from the mundane world.
Their message to the followers was simple, the realization of God cannot be achieved through conventional religious practices but through passionate devotion to God and intense meditation. They believed that the meditation would enable the devotees to liberate from trivial worldly matters and to become one with the God.
The Tomb and meditation chamber of the reverent Sheikh Salim Chisti
This tomb is raised at the site of saint’s meditation chamber, his khanqah. Earlier the saint had his khanqah near stone cutter’s mosque.
When the construction of Jami Masjid was complete, he was persuaded by Akbar to shift here. The ceremonies of Sama, musical rendition honoring God and reaching peaks of musical ecstasy, were carried at the back of his khanqah, in what is today the Zenana Rauza. It is believed that on special occasions Akbar with his wives joined and listened to these samas.
The rays of the setting-sun wandering in from the lattice screen, eager to pay last obeisance to the revered saint, fragrance of the incense sticks and the tender red-threaded hope of many, were adding a mystic dimension to the whole atmosphere, well suited to Sufism.
It is believed that initially the tomb was a red brick structure with only part of it constructed with marble. Jahangir’s foster brother “Qutubuddin Khan Koka” added the outer marble screens and paved the ambulatory with marble in 1606 creating an aura of extreme elegance.
The Buland Darwajah
The main approach (in addition to the Shahi Darwaja) to this complex is through 54 m high Buland Darwajah – the southern entrance of the mosque. The Mosque complex can be approached through this 130 feet wide gate after climbing an impressive flight of steps – forty-two in total. It further rises 134 feet above the top step, making it 176 feet above the ground level. The grandeur of Buland Darwaza appears impressive when one looks at it from ground.
The rectangular border of the central face of the gateway is adorned with beautiful calligraphy of impressive size.
This gate was constructed to commemorate Akbar’s triumphant victory in Gujarat, where his expedition to quell dissidence met with unexpected immediate success.
This is probably the only monument that reflects flamboyant style that was constructed during Akbar’s reign.
The rear facade of Buland Darwaja is adorned with domed kiosks. It was noted by Jahangir that on special occasions these kiosks were covered with colorful papers and the lamps were lit under them, giving dazzling view of the complex.
Ambiance around the mosque Complex of Fatehpur Sikri
It was time to return. For around 4 hours we were living in the bygone era – getting glimpses of Akbar’s life.
We moved from the Royal complex to the Mosque complex and it was like moving from imperial grandeur to spiritual simplicity. The courtyard was live with devotees, tourists, vendors and guides. Even with so many people around us there was serenity, peace and a general feeling of joy and happiness.
An effect that could be contributed to the prayers in the air, the setting sun that always leaves one in philosophical mood or maybe it was due to our satisfaction to see and enjoy this beautiful place. We slowed our pace, started to relax and left the place in tranquil mood.
In this quietude state of mind, I would like to end this post with the beautiful and soul-stirring message inscribed in calligraphy on Buland Darwazah
” The World is a Bridge, pass over it, but build no houses upon it. He who hopes for a day may hope for eternity; but the World endures but an hour. Spend it in prayer, for the rest is unseen.”
References
- Fatehpur Sikri – World Heritage Series
- Rough Guide – India
- Looking again at Indian Art – Vidya Dehejia
- The Age of wrath: A history of the Delhi Sultanate – Abrahm Eraly
- Jalis in Syncretic India by Navina Najat Haider
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