Caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri – a guided tour with the Emperor Kharavela

In this dramatized narrative, Emperor Kharavela personally conducts a tour for the Lady of the family through the Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves in Odisha. It is widely held that the Emperor Kharavela was instrumental in the creation of this cave complex.

The abode of Emperor Kharavela – Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves

I observe a young woman—’young’ not necessarily in age but certainly in spirit and eagerness to learn—appearing utterly bewildered as she explores my contribution to the world: the renowned Udayagiri and Khandagiri cave complex.

This cave complex lies approximately six kilometers west of Bhubaneswar. This is my home, my sanctuary. I spend my time watching tourists as they explore the complex, observing their behaviors and I discreetly overhear their conversations.

My interest is not in the sweet talk of lovers, their quarrels, or the chatter among numerous family picnickers. My interest lies in the scholars visiting the caves and genuine tourists seeking knowledge about these caves.

Looking for a knowledgeable guide at Udayagiri and Khandagiri Cave Complex

I observed this woman declining the offer of a guide at the cave’s entrance, choosing instead to navigate the caves by herself. Later, I noticed her regretting the decision not to hire the guide, as she struggled to make sense of it alone.

Fortunately, she encounters the guide once more, accompanying an elderly couple, and decides to employ his services to learn more about the caves. However, she soon discovers that the guide is just as uninformed, leading her to regret her decision to hire him.

Why Emperor Kharavela decided to Guide Jaishree?

Amidst the throngs of tourists who flock here for picnics, and those who come to snap photos and boast ‘I-have-been-there-too’—some even going so far as to etch their names into the stones, leaving a mark for future generations to disdainfully remember them for defacing their own heritage—she stands out.

After an extended period, I decide to emerge from my seclusion, break the silence that has lasted for ages, and invite her to explore these caverns alongside me.

Centuries of silence and seclusion have also affected me. I no longer recall all the facts in detail, so as I take her on this tour, I will share with her the knowledge I’ve gathered from scholars and archaeologists who occasionally visit the complex.

You’re smiling! I’ll share the story that I learned from researchers. It’s quite amusing, but please consider that this tale and the cave complex it involves are many centuries old.

Who was Emperor Kharavela?

Oh, I haven’t shared about myself yet! Can you guess? No? That’s alright, I’m not widely known.

I am Emperor Kharavela of the Chedi dynasty, which governed this region of Odisha, formerly the Kingdom of Kalinga, in 150 BC. During my rule, we carved out these monastic caves in the Udayagiri and Khandagiri hills.

Hmm! Now, I suppose you understand why I am so attached to these caves. Thus, today, after centuries of silence, I have decided to break my quietude and reveal the cave complex to this lady.

Emperor Kharavela meeting Jaishree

Jaishree – I am coming out of the cave complex tired and exhausted with the continuous up and down in this bee-hive hill-monument. My exhaustion is mental as well.

The indifferent manner in which we handle our national heritage monuments is lamentable. The allure of these monuments likely exists when people know more about them and can relate to them. However, the absence of authentic information is profoundly disappointing.

Having abandoned hope of encountering anyone knowledgeable, my interest in the monument has waned, and I now find myself observing the people around me, a favored pastime. I notice elderly, tall gentleman with a broad forehead, straight white hair, and a regal bearing, exuding a magnetic personality, making his way towards me.

History of Caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri

‘Putri, are you visiting this cave complex for the first time.’, the old man is addressing me.

I respond affirmatively, recognizing that today I’ve let my natural defenses down and am conversing with a stranger. His confident and warm tone influenced this openness.

‘You want to know more about them. Right?’

And without waiting for my response, he continues, “Regrettably, there isn’t much information available from ASI either. Allow me to guide you through the cave complex once more. I assure you that you won’t be disappointed this time.

Jaishree – Feeling exhausted and overwhelmed, I had lost all hope of finding someone knowledgeable about the monument. Thus, I reply, “I would have loved to, but I have already visited the monument.”

‘Putri, what is your good name’

‘Jaishree’ replies me.

“Jaishree, it’s not often that I accompany others and lead them on a guided tour. Come with me,” he says in his deep, soft voice, and begins to ascend once more.

Jaishree joins the Guide

Jaishree – With his suggestion, he begins to walk ahead as though he is certain I will join him.

I glance at Manish and Chachiji, and see that both of them are busy with kids. On this trip, Tanmay, the younger boy who was previously confined to a limited space, is now bursting with energy and enthusiasm at this vast cave complex.

Manish is running around following him to ensure that he does not lend himself in some misadventure. Mountains! my two kids are born with a natural affection for them. Once on mountain they appear to be on their home front, liberated, energized and challenged to scale the heights.

Engrossed in these thoughts, I find myself following the elderly gentleman as if under a spell.

The old names of Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves

Gentleman – (As he ascends, he remarks casually) In ancient times, these hills were known as Kumara and Kumari. The exact time when they were renamed Udayagiri (the hill of the rising sun) and Khandagiri (the broken hill) is unknown.

Khandagiri Hill stands approximately thirteen feet taller than Udayagiri Hill, which rises to a height of one hundred and ten feet. These twin hills are home to excavated rock-cut caves, which served as the abodes for Jain ascetics. Udayagiri boasts about eighteen of these caves, while Khandagiri has fifteen.

Jaishree – We have not yet been to Khandagiri, we started with Udayagiri only.

The mythology of caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri

Gentleman – You did the right thing taking care of the sun and also Udayagiri caves are more interesting and important.

According to local legend, these hills were originally a segment of the Himalayas. Hermits carved out caves within these hills to meditate in seclusion. When Lord Rama required stones to construct a bridge, Hanuman tore off a significant portion of the Himalayas and transported it, along with its inhabitants. By accident, this piece shattered further and landed here, where it has remained ever since.

Jaishree – I mustered a smile, as these are the things Manish enjoys. I am weary and have no intention of accompanying the gentleman again to hear his fictitious tales.

The Kalinga dynasty

Gentleman – ‘Putri, let’s begin the tour with a brief history of this beautiful city. The earliest findings by archaeologists indicate human settlements dating back to the fourth century BC.

During that era, the Kalinga dynasty governed from the fortified city of Shishupalgarh, located nine kilometers southeast of Khandagiri. Gradually, the ancient kingdom of Kalinga became powerful and affluent, bolstered by trade through its port of Kalinga Nagar, with its colonial influence reaching as far as present-day Indonesia.

Are you aware of the might of this kingdom? Greek sources from that era indicate that the kingdom of Kalinga boasted a formidable army and a massive elephant corps, which inspired fear and awe among its adversaries.

In-fact Chandragupta Maurya brought entire India under his control except for the powerful Kalinga kings. He never dared invading them.

The Kalinga war

Ashoka, the grandson of Chandragupta Maurya, who ruled in 262 BC resolved to conquer this land of fiercely independent people who had never been subdued. He got stiff resistance, even women and children of the Kingdom took part in that war and perished.

लाख तलवारें बढ़ी आती हों गर्दन की तरफ
सर झुकाना नही आता तो झुकाएे कैसे|

Ashoka won the war, but at what cost?

Ashoka decisively ended their struggle of independence at Dhauli, but the victory came at a steep price. Historians believe that the bloodshed was so extensive that the Daya River’s water turned red. The people of Kalinga sent a resounding message to the triumphant Ashoka

मैं नही कहता कि तुझे मेरा सर ना मिलेगा
मेरी आँखों में लेकिन तुझे डर ना मिलेगा|

Ashoka accepting Buddhism

The staggering loss of lives, including women and children, profoundly affected Ashoka. He emerged victorious, but over whom? Over what would he reign? A vast expanse of the deceased.

Could he ever gain acceptance among those who were left behind? His remorse was profound, leading him to vow never to engage in another war. He embraced Buddhism and renounced his imperialistic ambitions.

I believe, this realization of futility of wars, infused human qualities in him and raised his stature in history, otherwise who would have considered him, Ashoka the Great!

Dhauli inscription of Ashoka

Jaishree – The gentleman stop for a while and look at me.
“I have been to Dhauli a couple of days back and seen his inscription and also the Daya river”, added me.

Gentleman – ‘Do you know, in those inscriptions, Ashoka remained silent about the Kalinga war, as well as his formidable adversaries against whom he waged such an unyielding war? Ashoka opted to exclude any mention of the brutality and terrible actions he exhibited during that conflict.’

Jaishree – ‘I hadn’t noticed it before, but now that you mention it, I recall that it is indeed true. Your description is proving to be quite insightful.’

The foundation of Chedi dynasty and the Emperor Kharavela

Gentleman (smiles and continues) – There was such a disgust over Magadhan rule that within fifty years of that conquest our ancestors overthrew Magadhan yoke and founded Chedi dynasty.

The third king of this dynasty, Mahameghwan Kharavela was the most powerful of all. He was a contemporary to Saatvahan dynasty. You might be knowing that it was the Saatvahan dynasty that constructed the gateways of Sanchi.

The inscription of Hathigumpha at the Udayagiri and Khandagiri cave complex

Jaishree – I didn’t realize how quickly I climb the ramp following that gentleman listening the history of Odisha. I am now standing in front of the inscriptions at Hathigumpha. I notice a special pride in his eyes when he mentioned Chedi Dynasty and the Emperor Kharavela.

Gentleman – This is the oldest cave that exists in these hills. It is a natural cavern of considerable extent with no architectural molding or form. (Pointing his finger towards the inscriptions on the brows of Haathi Gumpha) – Probably these caves would not have deserved any special mention apart its size, had these magnificent inscriptions were not here.

These inscriptions were first studied by Mr Stirling in 1830 from an incomplete copy made by colonel Mckenzie. Lieutenant Markham Kittoe prepared an eye-copy of it in 1837 with marvelous exactness and from this copy John Princep published a lithography and translation.

After having a close look at these inscriptions, John Princep commented, “All who take interest in Indian antiquities will at once see the value of the above record, perhaps the most curious that has yet been disclosed to us and will lament the irretrievable obscurity in which the dilapidation of ages has involved the greater part of its content.”

From the mature and priestly style of composition with which the inscription commences, Princep concluded that it was more modern than the edicts of Asoka. However, Princep failed to decipher the name of the king who got these inscriptions.

This inscription in Brahmi script is fourteen feet long, and six feet broad. It consists of seventeen lines, with each letter measuring approximately two inches in length.

The rock’s surface is uneven, yet the letters are sizable and deeply etched. Due to the rocks’ fragility, the inscription has suffered damage in various spots.

The first six lines are well-preserved. And although only part of the last four lines remain, enough of the document survives for it to be recognized as the world’s oldest engraved document.

The exact period of Emperor Kharavela’s rule

It has been conclusively established that these inscriptions are from the Kharavela period. Regrettably, pinpointing the precise date of these inscriptions is challenging, making it equally difficult to ascertain the exact period of Emperor Kharavela’s reign.

Some historians believe that he ruled in second century BC and some think he ruled in the first century BC. There is a set of other historians who believe that he ruled in the second quarter of the first century AD. However, the most plausible date for his reign seems to be around one hundred and fifty-nine BC.’

Jaishree – King Kharavela! Hmm I never heard his name. Was he a powerful monarch?
(The gentleman had a sly smile on his face and he started to speak slowly).

Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves – The authentic source of information about Emperor Kharavela

Gentleman – You have not heard about this powerful emperor as these caves are the only source of information about him and also about the Chedi dynasty to which he belonged.

Kharavela was a devout follower of Jainism and exhibited equal obsession for military conquests. He conducted several successful military campaigns in North, South and Central India, and expanded his control over a vast area. These victories provided him enough capital to finance the elaborate and exquisite carvings in this first cave-temple of Odisha.

(He then pointed his finger towards damaged and neglected inscription in Hathi Gumpha and continued…). This inscription starts with Navkar Mantra and then talks about king Kharavela from his birth till thirty-eight years of his life.

For the initial fifteen years, he enjoyed the carefree existence typical of a child, immersed in sports and various entertainments. Over the following nine years, he acquired knowledge in writing, painting, literature, mathematics, accounting, and law. During this time, he became Yuvaraja. At twenty-four, he ascended the throne, assuming the sovereignty of Kalinga.

In the initial years of his rule, he focused on making his capital strong by repairing gates, ramparts and the palace that suffered weathering.

He also trained himself in science of dance and music and delighted citizens of Kalinga by organizing festive parties and gatherings of danseuse, singers and musicians.

He invaded Satavahana kingdom and captured its territories. He defeated the Tamil confederacy that existed in that region for more than three-hundred years.

A rival monarch, who had previously slain a king and was tormenting the ruler of Rajagir, fled without engaging in battle upon hearing of Kharavela’s impending assault.

Kharavela effectively countered the invading Greeks and launched two invasions into Magadh. In his inscription, he mentions acquiring a sacred Jain Tirthankara statue during one of these raids, which originally belonged to the Nanda dynasty, predecessors of the Maurya dynasty. One could say, “The assault was a fitting response to the once-powerful Maurya dynasty that devastated our lives.”

This invasion marked the end of the Mauryan dynasty. The last Mauryan Emperor was subsequently overthrown by his general, Pushyamitra Shunga.

Hathigumpha – The oldest cave in the Udayagiri cave complex

‘Putri’ Alongside the text, you would observe Jain religious symbols such as Nandipada, Srivatsa, Swastika, Snake, and Lotus. These symbols are revered across the ancient religions of India, including Jainism, Buddhism, and Hinduism. The absence of additional artwork, aside from this inscription, leads to the belief that this cave is the oldest within the complex.

Jaishree – The history is fascinating, but what truly captivates me is the stunning Hathigumpha, a natural cave that was artfully enlarged and expanded through human effort.

The name Hathigumpha might indeed stem from its size; it is spacious enough to hold a gathering of approximately sixty to seventy monks.

It is a vast, irregularly shaped cave with two smaller four-foot caves flanking the entrance. These diminutive caves feature entrances narrow enough to allow only a small person to crawl through.

However, there is no sculptures or architectural ornaments to appreciate.

The thought of these caves during the Monsoon season, with heavy rainfall creating a curtain-like effect, is mesmerizing. It must be a spectacular sight to behold.

Why Hathigumpha inscriptions have no mention of Ashoka’s inscription

The inscriptions of Kharavela, particularly the Hathigumpha Inscription, are notable for their historical significance and are often compared to those of Ashoka and Samudragupta. While they provide detailed accounts of Kharavela’s reign and victories, including his conquests over Magadha, there is no explicit mention of bitter feelings towards Ashoka. The Hathigumpha Inscription does describe Kharavela’s great victory over Magadha, which is the region Ashoka once ruled, but it does not specifically cite any personal animosity towards Ashoka himself.

Gentleman – There is no mention. However, the proximity of these inscriptions to that of Ashoka, and still no mention of him do generate some speculations among the scholars.

The prevailing view among scholars is that the inscriptions carved into this hill, situated near Dhaulagiri (the site of Ashoka’s discovered inscriptions), served to assert Kharavela’s dominance over Ashoka and to obliterate the harsh memories of defeat in that violent conflict.

The intentional exclusion of references to the Kalinga War and Ashoka likely aimed to avoid reviving the profound pain and bitterness associated with the harsh memories of the brutal Magadhan conquest. Indeed, horrified by the slaughter, Buddhism waned and Jainism rose as the predominant faith during Kharavela’s rule.

The Sandstone caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri

Gentleman – It is evident that the excavation of these caves was not conducted in a planned manner. The caves were excavated where the stone allowed and remained untouched where it was resistant.

Actually, these hills are formed of coarse-grained porous and brittle sandstone that rose over laterite terrain. Sandstone being a soft stone is easy to excavate, but it is brittle and porous.

Its brittleness makes it an unfit candidate for intricate carvings and its porosity makes it vulnerable to weathering. You might have noticed that most of the carvings are in bad shape due to weathering.

The other caves – the Paavangumpha, Baghgumpha and the Serpentgumpha in the Udayagiri cave complex

Jaishree – While listening to the gentleman, I am also looking around. Immediately to the north of elephant cave is the Paavan Gumpha meaning a sacred cave.

Near Hathigumpha lies a smaller cave known as “Baghgumpha,” distinguished by its exterior carved to resemble the open mouth of a tiger. The far-set jaws create the veranda of the cave, while the head is skillfully shaped, showcasing the remarkable chiseling work. The cave’s entrance is ingeniously designed as tiger’s throat.

The Baghgumpha is indeed a capriccio – a work of art having a blend of nature and human imagination. It is a mass of sandstone rock put together into the resemblance of the head of a tiger. There is a short inscription at the entrance of the cell that was read by the Princep as “Excavated by Ugra-Aveda (the anti-Vedist).

Towards the west of the Hathigupmha is a rude carving of the head of a three hooded cobra – The Sarpa Gumpha or the Serpent Gumpha. The cubical cell inside is quite small. There is a countersunk doorway with jambs sloping inwards at a considerable angle. The inscription here states that it is “The unequalled chamber of Chulakarma”. The Tiger and the Serpent caves represent the most ancient, sculpted caves within the complex.

Once these caves might have reverberated with the religious chanting of ‘Navkar Mantra’ but at this time it is echoing with the joys and shrills of Tanmay and Rachit.

They are entering and sitting in the caves imitating ascetics, sometimes peeping from the small openings of the cave with amazement and appreciation.

I wonder, what might have attracted monks to meditate here. Probably small, confined spaces helped them in getting maximum concentration.

Author’s note: Just as small spaces can aid in achieving maximum concentration, writing anything more extensive than this article might risk losing your attention, my dear readers, so I shall conclude here.

I would be taking you to the tour of Rani Cave and Ganesha Cave (the two most beautiful caves of the complex, so remain tuned and do continue the trip in the second and the concluding part).

Please click here to read the next part of the story

Please click here to read the story of the Girnar Ashokan inscription

Udayagiri and Khadagiri Cave, Bhubaneswar Timings

These caves are open on all days from morning 8:00 am to evening 5 pm. It is better to reach early as there are many caves to explore. It will take a full day if you really want to explore all the caves in detail.

How to reach Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves from Bhubaneswar

Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves are located near Bhubaneswar town in Odisha (Orissa), India. It is about 6 km away from Bhubaneshwar town separated by the national highway NH-5. Public transport, auto rickshaws and cabs are available from Bhubaneswar town to take you to these caves.

How many caves are there in Udayagiri and Khandagiri

Udayagiri has 18 caves and Khandagiri has 15 caves.

References

The Cave temples of India by James Fergusson and James Burgess

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