Backwater cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

This travelogue details my impressions of the cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey, as the cruise moved from the narrow lanes of the backwaters to the open lagoons.

Backwaters of Kerala

The backwaters of Kerala is a bewildering labyrinth of interconnected waterways, formed as a result of sea-waves creating short barrier across the mouths of rivers flowing down from the Western Ghats range.

It is composed of lagoons, lakes, rivers, rivulets, canals, streams and salty seawater. It lies parallel to the Arabian sea-coast of Kerala, has five large lakes interconnected by numerous canals both man-made and natural, and is fed by around thirty-eight rivers.

This complex criss-crossing brackish lagoons and lakes, is also the lifeline of the people living around. Colonel Munroe, the Divan of the Travancore state, built a 35-feet lighthouse at Pazhukkanila, Kottayam at the confluence of the Kodoor and Meenachil rivers with the Vembanad lake, in 1815, to guide traders sailing from the neighboring districts of Alleppey and Ernakulum. This lighthouse was lit using kerosene, and a lens beside it was used to illuminate a large area.

This cruise is a bliss for the tourists as it gives glimpses of rural Keralan lifestyle that is completely hidden from other modes of transport.

Cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

It was the new year eve. Everything was exorbitantly priced. Charges for spending a night in a Kettuvallam sky-rocketed to thrice of its usual price and even in that price they were not readily available.

We dropped the idea of renting a houseboat and decided to take a normal cruise. The plan was to move from Thekkady to either Kottayam or to Kumarakom, and then to cruise from there to Alleppey.

Most of the locals and the cruise operators in Kumily discouraged us from going to Kumarakom and so we settled for a cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey. There was enough excitement as cruise through shimmering backwaters was a dream about to come true.

Kottayam

We reached Kottayam early morning after a comfortable three-hour drive from Kumily. Kottayam is headquarters of Malayala Manorama, a regional newspaper with highest circulation in the world.

It is also the first district of India to achieve hundred percent literacy and Arundhuti Roy, author of “God of Small things”, spent her childhood in a nearby village.

Preparation for the cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

At Kottayam we bought mineral water bottles and also loaded ourselves with snacks to keep Rachit, who was three years old at that time, busy and happy. We are against junk food, but there are exceptions when we travel. We keep the junkies handy, sometimes to give kids instant calories and sometimes to keep them in cheerful mood.

Water Hyacinth at Kottayam Backwaters

While we were waiting for the arrival of our ship, I noticed that the water was un-clean and the African moss was growing all around – a symptom of serious ecological imbalance.

In recent times, the population density of this region has increased manifold, putting pressure on farming and greater reliance on fertilizers. These fertilizers make their way to the water bodies and supplement the growth of moss around.

African moss destroys the fragile ecosystem by carpeting the surface of water bodies, denying light and oxygen to the underlying aquatic life.

African moss is a menace for smaller boats as well.

Inside the boat – Cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

A double-decker boat arrived. Its lower portion was fully covered and it had windows for outside views. The upper portion was partially covered with fibersheet and there were plastic chairs to enjoy the unhindered views. We eagerly occupied the front seats there.

The impressions of life – Cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

The cruise started from narrow lanes of the backwaters. There were small settlements on the bank of the canals and we were witnessing life from close quarters. Here and there, we saw basic drawbridges.

Several times we noticed a few people crossing them. The boat whistled, announced its arrival, people about to cross the bridge were stopped and the bridge was lifted to pave way for ship’s safe passage. These drawbridges are among the main reason why boat-services are not allowed on this route at night.

Daily life continued both on the water and the coconut-fringed shoreline. At several places men with their fishing rods were patiently trying out their luck in the backyard of their houses.

Several women were busy washing clothes and pots. Office-goers were waiting for water taxis at the stands. Most of the people around backwaters rely on boatmen to ferry them across the waterways, sometimes simply to cross the canals and sometimes to connect them with roads and railways.

These boatmen crisscross waterways from dawn to dusk and earn their livings. Some of the residents living along the backwaters also have their own small boats.

Narrow lanes to widen Canals – Cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

After a brief period of sailing through the narrow lanes with settlements around, the canal started to widen; trails of never-ending coconut trees, dazzling paddy fields spread far and wide, occupied the canvas of the picturesque landscape.

The fresh water of the backwaters supports the irrigation of these paddy fields. The coconut trees were protruding towards and away from the canal in strange angles.

The Terns perched on the overhead wires in perfect calmness, matching to their serene surroundings. Earthen embankments surrounded the paddy farms around the backwater.

The land here is below sea level similar to the lowlands of Netherlands. In Kerala also, the land has been reclaimed from the sea for farming.

From Canals to Open Lagoons – Cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey

From wider canals we moved to an open lagoon. Initially we liked the change, however, soon it was monotonous. The cruise was more interesting when we were seeing the human life around.

In open vistas, the only relief was the occasional sightings of Kettuvallams. A few Kettuvallams were parked in a corner and were about to start their journey. In shallow waters they were pushed and propelled like Gondolas with long bamboo poles.

Once in deep waters, these floating cottages are powered by engine to provide smooth sail. These houseboats are slow-moving to let the tourists on board enjoy and experience the idyllic settings around.

During the cruise there were two stops. The coconut water served at the first stop provided much-needed refreshment in that hot and humid weather.

Rachit, utilized the opportunity to complete the ritual of throwing stones in the world’s water bodies. These stops also provide a chance to get down and to stretch legs as sitting for long with restricted movement becomes tiresome.

End of the cruise

Finally this four-hour cruise ended in Alleppey and we hired an auto to reach our accommodation – Tharayil Tourist Home. It is a green and clean family run accommodation.

The beautiful house relaxed our tired bodies and after taking lunch we crashed on the beds, dreaming of our fulfilled and unfulfilled dreams – the cruise on backwaters and a star-studded night on a Kettuvallam.

Click here to read about the local ferry ride in Kollam

Click here to read about the top 10 places to visit in Kerala

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