Bagore Ki Haveli, Udaipur

When visiting Udaipur, visitors often miss out on a little known attraction of Udaipur- Bagore Ki Haveli. It is certainly a must visit place in Udaipur for both kids and adults.

Why you must visit Bagore Ki Haveli in Udaipur?

It is a delight for architecture lovers with its lovely elements of Rajasthani architecture like arched entrances and doors, Jharokha, Chhatris, Chajjas, Jali.

While you indulge in art and architecture, kids run free in its shaded Verandahs and take delight in colorful puppets and trying their hands and heads with colorful turbans, climbing up and down and dreaming of playing hide and seek in so many rooms.

History and meaning behind the Name

Udaipur was the seat of rule of Mewar region of Rajasthan. Maharan Udai Singh II founded it , after losing the Chittorgarh fort in 1568. The location had a big defence advatage. Hill ranges surrounded it from all sides. Thus, it was difficult to be attacked.

The Sisodiya rulers of Mewar clan divided Mewar into many administrative units which were governed by sixteen Umraos and thirty two Jagirdars, all from Rajput Clans. Besides these, there were Deevans which were not necessarily from Rajput clans.

These were powerful and rich people and they all had their Havelis in Udaipur to stay for administrative purposes, just like we have various state bhavans in Delhi.

All these Havelis were grand and magnificent. Many of these have been well preserved and converted to Hotels like Amet Ki Haveli, Karoi ki Haveli, where these depict the name of the places from where these dignitaries belonged.

Then there were Deevans, Prime ministers and businessmen who also had big mansions. Their mansions are called after their cast or surname like Bapna Ki Haveli, Kothariyon Ki Haveli and so on. Collecting together, one has ample availability of these old havelis in Udaipur to stay in.

Who built Bagore Ki Haveli?

Bagore ki Haveli is one such old palatial mansion where Bagor denotes the name of the place. Shri Amarchand Badwa built it in 18th century. iI was part of Mewar estate, and later it went to Indian Goverment’s hands. Things deteriorated for the haveli after this transfer. It was misused and that caused more damage. Haveli’s good luck, somehow government was persuaded to restore it and after restoration it was converted to museum.

Elements of Rajasthani Architecture in Bagore Haveli

Courtyards in Bagore Ki Haveli

There are three courtyards in Bagore Haveli- Kuan Chowk, Neem Chowk and Tulsi Chowk.

Kuan Chown or the Well court is located on the ground floor of the Bagore ki Haveli,

Neem Chowk was primarily used by men. It was used as stage for music and dance performances. Even now the place displays various performing art forms.

Tulsi Chowk, was the prime area for the women which also housed the zenana, the women’s quarters. Women of the house used this Chowk for festival celebrations where they sang and danced.

Now, the Chowk displays a beautiful collection of turbans and women’s costumes.

Architectural and functional aspect of Courtyards/Chowk

Central Courtyard: Any old Haveli in Rajasthan has central courtyards bounded on four sides by verandahas. Rooms are arranged in these verandahs in a way that all open into verandah and get the light from central courtyard which is enough for hot and dry regions of Rajasthan.

These rooms have few external openings as compared to the large windows of the European buildings, to protect from dust storms, hot winds of summers and heat from harsh sun. No matter how large the mansion is, courtyards remain of a moderate size to keep it functional, but their numbers increase according to the size of the house.

So it may be one to five or more courtyards depending upon the size of the house. Courtyard thus essentially provide reprieve from boxed in feeling.

Jaali, Jharokha and Chhatri: 

Rajasthani architectural elements of Jaali, Chhatri and Jharokha is appreciable in this haveli.

Jharokhas and Chajjas are not merely decorative ‘elevations’ as we understand in today’s architecture. These are actually functional aspects of a building having great aesthetic sense. Thus a Jharokha is a overhanging semi enclosed balcony.

Here in this Haveli, you see Chhatris on the roof. These are are usually built on the corners and roofs of the building to add to its grandiose plan and status.

Jaali is the perforated latticed stone screen used from ancient times in India, which can be seen in many Hindu temples dating back to before 10th CE. It gives soft light and controls the temperature of air by making it pass through perforations in stone.

Use of stained glass in many of its windows is european influence.

Layout of Bagore Haveli

As you enter, you reach a courtyard housing a well and it takes you to another courtyard inside. In this outer courtyard itself, a flight of stairs take you to a hall where Dahrohar Show comprising of folk dances and art is organised every evening at 7 pm.

The first feeling for visitor is its cool interiors, which give a soothing soft cushion from the backs baked by the strong sunlight of Rajasthan.

Long verandas take you to various rooms which have been sectioned into Puppet Museuem, turban section, weapons room, wedding room, and likes.

The corridors give a glimpse here and there of their past grandeur. Square cut stone boundary has a few remaining Belgium colored glasses and pillars give an excellent framing for photo enthusiasts.

Museum Rooms in Bagore Ki Haveli

Bagore ki Haveli museum is divided into five sections – The Puppet museum, the main haveli, the Turban museum, the Weapon museum and the Wedding Section.

The Puppet Room:

This room is the favorite among kids. Puppet room is a colorful room full of puppets, arranged to depict scenes of stories and royal court and life.

• 

• 

• 

Turban Room : This room has various turbans displayed and there are turbans to tie and try as well.

The Main Haveli : I have taken you through the various parts of the Haveli already.

View from The Terrace of Bagore Haveli

The Terrace:Its terrace gives fantastic Views of Lake Pichola and Gangor Ghat and the Chhatris provide adorable frame to images.

Night Show of Folk Dance at Bagore Ki Haveli

• The show comprises of folk dances of Rajasthan.
• The one hour long night show starts at 7 pm in the evening and tickets can be bought 6:15 pm onwards.
• Ticket Price for Dharohar Dance Show is as- 
  • 90 per person for Indians
  •  45 per person for Children
  •  150 per person for Foreign Adult
  •  75 per person for Foreign Child
  •  150 for Any Camera

Dharohar Dance Show at Bagore Ki Haveli

Dharohar Dance Show starts in the evenings starting at 7 pm. in the courtyard called as the Neem Chowk. As night falls, the Jharokhas balconies of the courtyard are lit up and the whole atmosphere transforms into a romantic place.

Mattresses are arranged on floor for sitting. One gets transported to the olden days of life in this Haveli. We feel like royal people viewing the dance performances.

A conch is blown. A woman attired in traditional Rajasthani dress arrives on the stage amidst the beating of the drum and singing.

The first dance performance is Chari Dance. Dancers dance along with lit brass pots on their head in Chari dance.

The next dance performance called as Terha Taal Dance. When dancers in the performance hold a knife in their mouth, along with a set of brass pots on their head as well as play manjiras, audience erupted in joy.

The Gorbandh Dance reflects the gay abandonment and fast twirling.

 Rajasthani Puppet show was most like by my younger kid. It was a comical skit and the skillful pulling of strings left my kid forever remembering it.

Ghoomar Dance shows you the real, authentic steps of Ghoomar as compared to the bollywood-ised performance of Deepika in Padmavat.

The final performance of the show is Bhavani dance. It is less of a dance and more of acrobatics. Performers place pots on their heads and keep on increasing their number of pots to 13.

Travel Tips: It is located at the Gangore Ghat on Lake Pichhola. There is a small temple at the ghat where devotees come in the morning and some sing bhajans as well. It is quite convenient to visit it in afternoons, when sun is hot.

Explore streets of Udaipur for more charming old world doors and windows and street art.