Spring means flowers, new leaves and sunshine. A wild spring brings a riot of colors in the jungles across India. The Himalayan state of Sikkim has some 30 varieties of wild Rhododendrons which bloom together from March to May. We decided to do the Hilley-Varsey trek to enjoy the ‘Rhodo-spring’.
Rhododendrons bloom at lower ridges of Barsey through March and April. Blooming of Rhododendron shifts from lower altitude to higher altitude as summer approaches. Even in the month of peak summer in May-June Rhododendron blooms beyond 10,000 ft.
Why Hilley-Varsey trek/ Rhododendron Sanctuary Trek is best for “Spring Fever”?
The wild Rhododendrons in Sikkim range from alpine matted plants to giant trees, blossoming with white, pink, purple, to red flowers in varying tinge. Although these can be seen across Sikkim in spring, the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary is the loveliest place to watch it.
The Hilley Varsey trail goes mad with colors during March and April with rhododendrons blooming across the valley.
This Rhododendron sanctuary trek is along the Singalila ridge giving excellent views of Kanchenjunga range of Himalayas. It is a bio-diversity hotspot too. The dense forest of Barsey is covered with hemlocks, bamboos, silver firs, magnolia and rhododendron trees and bushes. It is also very rich in bird life with almost 300 species of birds.
A visit to this sanctuary entices the visitor with the glowing snowy peaks, colors of rhododendron blooms and songs from a very rich bird life, bringing a ‘spring fever’ in the heart.
Is Hilley Varsey trek easy to do?
The Hilley-Barsey trek is a four km bridle path, easy for every age group and takes about four hours to and fro. One can also stay at Barsey overnight in camps or lodge.
My experience of Hilley-Varsey Trek
We visited the sanctuary from Kaluk. It was a two hour drive from Kaluk to reach Barsey. But the drive itself was so scenic and silent that I would say that was an added charm. We also stopped at Soreng to hike on the Bhildara trek. About Bhildara trek…. in some other post.
Not just that, even before we reached Hilley, lots of Rhododendrons were bursting with colors and blooms all along the road.
We had carefully planned the trip, all the way from Bangalore, keeping in plan the Rhododendron blooms and the Himalayan birds. Did our plan go well? Read on.
Reaching Hilley
By the time we reached Hilley, clouds were already gathering in the sky. Quite a few trees were heavily laden with pink Rhododendrons. We bought tickets and rented four umbrellas at the gate of the sanctuary. We were the only visitors there at that time.
Inside the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary
It had rained earlier also, so the bridle path was a bit muddy. Initial stretch was through Bamboo groves, Rhododendrons and many other ghostly trees. We had to keep an eye on ground to not step into slush and mud, and of course leeches also.
After some twenty minutes of walk, younger son stepped into deep mud and his shoes were all wet and muddy. He began to throw tantrums now, but we coaxed him to carry on. It started to drizzle. Then some leeches attacked me and younger son. Still we managed to coax him to walk on.
Now, our whole attention was on leeches, rain and his unwilling attitude to walk. When we asked him that why was he misbehaving, when he himself likes to walk and walk only, he replied tersely- ” I am not wearing Brogues.” I made a mental note of restricting his never ending appetite to devour books.
Rain splits the party in two!
Rain picked up the pace. The cribbing junior most visitor also increased his rants. Handling an umbrella and driving off the leeches became a task now, among all this cribbing and cajoling, I decided to return with him, while husband and the elder son went on for the trek. So the party split in two.
One party comes out
Rain began to come down in full force. We both had to run and to reach the gate to take shelter in the ticket office. I was out of breath. The ticket officer was not at the window. There was no time to ask for his approval. We pushed the door of his little cabin and stood inside.
He came in a few minutes when two more visitors came and was a bit unhappy that we were in his cabin. He told us about a tea and snacks hut nearby. We again braved rain and dashed to that hut.
Inside, six men were playing cards. The hut was small, but the owner gave us seats. Now, I was a bit apprehensive. I was all alone with my son in that room. However, it was Sikkim which is really safe to travel. The owner realized my apprehensions, talked cheerfully to me and offered tea and noodles. He dispelled my anxiety very cleverly.
Rain continued to pour incessantly, six men continued playing cards, my son kept playing on mobile, shop owner kept supplying tea and snacks. What did I do? I kept looking at rain and men.
Travelling with children is challenging sometimes. The only option is to face it. That day, my younger son, who had already completed difficult treks Sangla Kanda in Kinnaur when he was four years old, Double-decker root bridge trek in Cherrapunji when he was five, and Kareri Lake trek of four days when he was seven, just refused to walk. It was an aberration, and we had to accept it. It was a good decision. The father-son duo could now walk without worry and enjoy the trek.
Read our Hiking Experiences with kids here.
Rain stopped for a while. Both of us came out, looked for birds and then again dashed in when it began to pour. The six men inside the hut continued to play cards as usual. A rainbow appeared, when rain finally stopped for the day.
Three hours passed like that. We saw some 20+ varieties of birds and captured ten in the camera. My boy was happy to have mobile for such a long time. He also took part in capturing birds, and sipped tea as well.
Experience of second party
Father-son duo returned from their trek. They were happy and like the trek very much, though Rhododendrons were not so much in bloom inside.
The trek was easy and passed through dense greenery. It opened in a valley. Then it went on along a water body.
Did we see Rhododendrons in full Bloom?
Just as all other wildlife, these Rhodos are also very poor at keeping appointment. We came all the way from Bangalore to meet them, but they sided with rain and did not give us a riot-like bloom. Sigh!
On the contrary, when we did Kareri trek, we had not asked for an appointment with their high altitude alpine cousins- the purple Rhododendrons. But they came all at once to meet us! Such are the ways of nature!
A Complete Guide to Hilley Varsey Trek / Rhododendron Sanctuary Trek In West Sikkim
Those who love to walk and love the Rhododendrons must do this trek in Spring.
Where is Hilley- Varsey Trek
Hilley Varsey trek is in West Sikkim.
Hilley village is the entry point. It is 100 kms from Pelling, 130 Kms from Gangtok, 140 kms from Bagdogra/ Jalpaigudi and 50 kms from Kaluk.
How to visit Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary
Hilley is the best accessible entry point to this sanctuary and one can do either a short day trek from Hilley to Varsey or go for three-four day’s hike to Phokteydara and then onto Uttarey.
Where to stay for Hilley-Varsey trek
The nearest place to stay is Okhrey village. Sherpas and Bhutias are the main residents here and they run a few home-stays, which are descent to stay.
The nearest town is Sombaria which is 20 kms from Okhrey. It has better option for stay.
As we were there as a family and were in Kaluk, we decided to explore it from there.
Can you stay inside the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary
Yes. There is a lodge- Gurans Kunj. It has one bedroom and one dormitory. However, I found it too tedious to book and the reviews were mixed. But staying there gives you ample time to explore the sanctuary further and then return. If you can, it is advisable to stay inside for a night.
Best time to Visit Varsey/ Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary
The best time to visit this part of western Sikkim is from March end to mid April. However, that is a big window, and it is difficult to time it. As you have read already, things do not go the way you want them, specially with nature.
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