- Water Colored Landscape of Munnar – God’s own art
- Tea and Other Exotics – discovering hidden Munnar
- Nilgiri Tahr on the wild ramp of Eravikulam (Rajamalai) National Park, Munnar
- Boat Safari in Periyar Lake @ Thekkady
- Nature-walk in Thekkady
- A visit to the kingdom of spices in Kumily
- Backwater cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey
- Enticing Munroe Island – best backwaters in Kerala
- Flavors of Local Ferry Ride in Kollam
“Go and enjoy sighting the goats”, the auto-wallah commented mischievously. We smiled and moved out to meet Nilgiri Tahr, whom the autowalla was calling a goat..
We were in his auto for long, traveling all the way from Munnar town, so coming out was a relief. Walking slowly and stretching ourselves, the eyes started to marvel the surroundings – an evergreen forest interspersed with rolling grasslands.
Eravikulam (the Rajamalai) National park- Nilgiri Tahr’s residence
We were in the Eravikulam (the Rajamalai) National park, which is situated on a 6400 feet high plateau. This national park is home to Anamudi, the highest peak of South India, standing tall at 8842 feet above sea level. After rising sharply from the plains, the Nilgiri Mountain spreads out here into a large plateau of smooth rolling grass covered hill. This plateau is dotted with woods or Sholas as these evergreen woods are called.
The well-laden path to the top was providing ravishing views of the valley, the serpentine road and its hairpin bends.
There is an interesting etymology behind the word Nilgiri as well. When viewed from far these mountains appear extra blue because of dense haze engulfing them. So the locals used to call them Nila-Giri. The word Nilgiri is the result of British pronunciation of the word Nilagiri.
This sanctuary is famous as the abode of once near to extinction Nilgiri-Tahr, the goats for ignorant.
Zoologically they are part of the bovine family like sheep, goats and even buffaloes and genetically they are closest to goat-antelope family (the Ovis).
At the start of the 20th century, indiscriminate hunting and poaching reduced them into pathetic two digit numbers.
This national park has played an important role in thwarting the danger of their eminent extinction.
Today there are around two thousand and five hundred Nilgiri Tahrs in wild and around half of this population lives in this national park.
Nilgiri Tahr and other Wild Tahrs
There are three species of wild Tahrs, all of them are still under the threat of extinction.
Two of them are found in South Asia, the Himalayan and the Nilgiri Tahrs and the third one, Arabian Tahr, is found in Oman.
The favorable climatic conditions of the Nilgiri Tahrs and the Arabian Tahrs are just opposite to each other.
The Arabian Tahr survives in arid-desert conditions while Nilgiri Tahr thrives in humid and moist conditions.
Zoologically they are part of the bovine family like sheep, goats and even buffaloes and genetically they are closest to goat-antelope family (the Ovis).
Nilgiri Tahr
Nilgiri Tahr is the state animal of Tamilnadu. It is locally known as “Varaiadu”.
However, for the tourists to Rajmalai national park, the name “cloud-goat” suits it better as it can often be seen emerging and vanishing into the mist, and the clouds.
Nilgiri Tahr’s mountain climbing Skills
Nilgiri Tahrs are excellent mountain climbers. They are able to balance themselves with agility on roughest and toughest slopes, even on the slopes littered with loose rocks, except during combats. Due to this unique skill Nilgiri Tahrs are also known as ‘The Cliff-Goat’ – a name descriptive and apt.
The rivalry for female Tahr
In the pursuit of showcasing themselves as the most suitable bachelor and to impress the lovely Tahr-eyed female they forget their usual cautiousness, firm-footed-ness and sometimes fall to death during combats.
In combat two rival Tahrs stand side-by-side and scrape backward at their opponent with their short, but heavy and curved horns.
However, once the supremacy is proven, masculinity is displayed and the dream Tahr girl is won over, the losers are not chased out of the herd; they are allowed to stay in the herd, and to wait for their turn.
Male vs Female Nilgiri Tahr
Tahr males are darker in color with silver saddle and a short bristly mane, while females are greyish brown with white bellies and two teats.
Males have larger curved horns as compared to their female counter parts. For most part of the year Tahrs live in separate groups with males enjoying their bachelor party with no responsibility. They do not permanently attach themselves to any herd. They usually join a herd during breeding season and leaves afterwards. On the contrary, the females prefer the family way, rearing and seeking the pleasure in seeing the young ones attaining adulthood.
As Tahr grow old their color began to change. From Grey color their coat becomes brown and then deepened to chocolate. As they become sturdy, then they become a ‘brown-buck’. This stage in development from adolescence to maturity is marked by aggression between young male tahrs.
The male Tahrs have scent glands between their horns and under-tail. In the breeding season from July to August, it gives strong smell.
Gestation period generally lasts from 180 to 242 days, after which the Tahr gives birth to a single or utmost a pair of kids.
If an offspring dies, nature has blessed Nilgiri Tahr in the sense that it quickly conceives again. Offspring are weaned off the milk quickly and moved on to the Shola vegetation. Salt is also among the favorites of this animal.
The threats to Tahr
Like all Herbivorous, Tahrs also possess a keen sense of smell which is much better developed then their sense of sight and hearing. This sense of smell is of special help when wind is flowing from predators to them. The alarm call of Nilgiri Tahr sounds like a whistle or a snort.
Tahrs remain alert when moving in groups. When others rest, a few of them stand and take guard. They are extremely watchful about any danger lurking from below. But they are poor in anticipating an attack from above. Panthers are masters of exploiting this weakness and levy the heaviest toll on their numbers.
Below is a rare video of Nilgiri Tahr and a tigress in the same frame. As can be seen the tigress is contemplating an attack from top.
Of course, here I am not talking about the cruelest and the greediest of all animals – the humans.
Irony is that the panthers kill to satiate its hunger, while the human hunters kill for pleasure. Their domestic dogs chase the Tahrs to exposed area providing the hunter an opportunity to try its killing machine, and getting a Tahr head as reward, proving himself a sharpshooter.
Poachers are not behind as well. They generally keep an eye on the animal’s regular path. The poachers spread banana leaves on sloppy parts of mountains. It causes Tahr to slip and die in disguise of accidental death.
Tahrs survival also faces stiff competition from domestic animals and the plantation of Eucalyptus.
There is hope for Nilgiri Tahr
While watching Nilgiri Tahr scaling steep slope and slippery rocks of the mountain, I hoped that the huntings and poachings are the things of past.
Nature does play a balancing act for panther’s natural need but it has no solution for human beings never ending greed. Today the increasing number of Nilgiri Tahrs give me an assurance that mine is not a false hope.
With this prayer, we moved down, clicking this extremely camera friendly animal, doing goat walk on the wild ramp of Rajmala national park and eating their favorite Shola vegetation.
The images of Munnar are still vivid. Memories of the rugged peaks in vicinity, carefully and beautifully manicured tea estates, wild streams flowing with their feathery touch to the wild and plantation alike, and the cold air having coldness of purity and devoid of harshness, keep Munnar alive for us.
Read about India’s national aquatic animal- Gangetic Dolphin here.
How far is Eravikulam National Park from Munnar?
Eravikulam National park is 15 Kms away from Munnar. You can hire an auto or cab from Munnar to reach here.
How to Reach Eravikulam National Park
- By Air– The nearest airport is Kochi, about 135 kilometers away from the park. It can also be reached from Coimbatore.
- By Rail. The nearest railway station from Eravikulam National Park is Aluva which is about 115 kilometers away.
- By Road. Munnar can be reached by road as well from all major towns of Kerala.
Eravikulam National Park Munnar Entry Fee
- Indian Adults – 125/- (Children – 95/-)
- Foreign Nationals – 420/-
- Ordinary Camera – 45/-
- Video Camera – 335/-
- Reservation fee Rs 50/- (Reservation counter 9 am – 3 pm at Information centre, Munnar)
Eravikulam National Park Munnar Timings
| Day | Timing |
|---|---|
| Monday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
| Tuesday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
| Wedesday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
| Thursday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
| Friday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
| Saturday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
| Sunday | 7:30 am – 4:00 pm |
Closure Period for Eravikulam National Park
Generally from February to March- for the Calving season of Nilgiri Tahr.
Can one take Private vehicles inside the Eravikulam Park
No. Private vehicles are not allowed inside the park.
References
The Toda and the Tahr by E.R.C Davidar – this book is a beautiful evocation of the life of the Todas – a tribe of the Nilgiri region, and of Moz—a Nilgiri tahr who is rescued from a trap by Karnoz – a Toda boy
Hmmmmn. Very educational at some points and very nicely written
Dear Dipansh
Thanks, your comments have become a constant source of encouragement. Its a pleasure that you find it interesting 🙂
The first ever comprehensive study of Nilgiri Tahr population in Western Ghats by WWF-India has put their numbers at 3122 (data released in Oct 2015). According to them it is possible to have at least five thousand Tahr in the Western Ghats.
A fact: An adult Nilgiri Tahr weighs around 100 Kg.
In a recent article by “George N Netto” in Hindu, the author has described how the bond between Tahr and human being developed in 1950s. According to him the credit for this goes to Walter Mackay, the general Manager of the local tea Estate “Rajamalai” in 1950s. He set aside this area and ensured that there was no hunting allowed here. He then laid out Salt-lick there.
The delicacy lured a herd of Tahr who started frequenting this area. He soon started to spoil them by offering the biscuits. This popularized him among the herd so much so that the toot of the horn of his car was enough to invite mob of these shy creatures.
There is still a noticeable difference in man-tahr bond in the tourist zone and the animals in the core zone. In the core zone the animal still flee away at the very sight of human being.