- The foundation of Vijayanagara Empire
- The history and the mythological story of Hampi
- Octagonal bath, Saraswati Temple and Chandrashekara Temple in Hampi
- Queen’s Bath, in Hampi
- Mahanavami Dibba, Hampi
- The Audience Hall and the Tanks and Baths of the Royal Quarters, Hampi
- Hazara Rama Temple, Hampi
- The Elephant Stable and the Guards room, Hampi
- The Zenana Quarters, Hampi
- Krishna Temple, Hampi
- Uddana Veerabhadra and the Chandikesvara Temple, Hampi
- Noblemen’s and Muslim Quarters, and the Underground Shiva Temple, Hampi
- The Monuments of Hemakuta Hill, Hampi
- The statue of Lord Narasimha and His never ending stories, Hemakuta hill, Hampi
- Virupaksha Temple, Hampi
- Kannappa Nayanar
- Malyavanta Hill, Hampi
- Vijaya Vittala Temple, Hampi – The Architectural Show-piece of Vijayanagar Empire
- Hampi Trivia
- Roaming around, in Hampi
- Coracle Ride on the river Tungabhadra, Hampi
- River Side Sculptures along Tungabhadra at Chakratirtha, Hampi
- A photo-feature on Ancient Kampa Bhupa Path in Hampi
In this article, we would be visiting the Nobelmen’s and Muslim Quarters and also the Underground Shiva Temple in Hampi and discuss in details about it. But first let us stop at Sister-Rock in Hampi before moving forth to our destination.
Sister-Rock Hampi
After visiting the Uddana Veerbhadra Temple, on the way further, the auto-wallah shows us the Sister-Rock, a gigantic arch formed by two huge boulders.
I had read about them, but here they look unimpressive. None of us bothers to walk close to it. And then I realize the reason, one of the two boulder is broken and hence the impressive arch and a perfect V, no more exists.
Same is not true for the stories that we associate with this once impressive rock formation. The fables continues to be heard and are passed on to the next generation.
The Legend behind Sister-Rock
This sister rock formation is associated with two sisters who visited Hampi during its heyday. Tired, they sat down with their backs touching each other and either because of exhaustion in heat or due to jealousy,they started to talk about Hampi in derogatory manner. “What is Here to see! Nothing but these rocks everywhere! What an over-hype”
A Sage was there behind one of the rocks. When he heard this conversation, he got angry, came out of his place and cursed the two sisters to turn in rocks forever. Such arches are known as Akka-Tangi, meaning Sister Boulders, in the Bellary region of Karnataka. I guess, this name in Kannada prompted creative minds to come-up with this lore to frighten the playful little girls and to discipline them.
Noblemen’s Quarters, Hampi
Looking out of the auto, I am lost in thoughts about the story associated with the sister rock, “How can someone be a sage, when he can’t even hear this little criticism about a place”; Suddenly my eyes pop-out, towards our left are the structural remains of palatial houses of the past, glowing in the evening light.
I request the auto-wallah to stop and he readily obliges. In this complex there are several excavated structures with the stone basement, plaster-floor, and the surviving lower portion of the partition wall. The stone basement of these structures once carried wooden pillars over them. These houses were probably burnt when Hampi was seized and whatever remained had fallen prey to the ravage of time.
Why it is believed that this complex belong to Noblemen’s Quarters, Hampi
Several such complexes have been excavated with separate enclosures and there are narrow streets between them.
It is difficult to tell with surety who once occupied these buildings, but on virtue of their plan and elevation, internal and external layouts and the decorative elements surviving on some of them, it is believed that powerful people from the royal court lived here. The evidences of water-channels, Chinese porcelain and occasionally discovered golden jewelry further reinforces this belief.
These complexes are hence referred as Noblemen’s Quarter. Another set of experts believe that these houses were probably occupied by the courtesans of the empire. Dominigo Paes has described that these women lived in beautiful row houses in the best street of the capital, the magnificence of which surpasses all description.
Muhammadan watch-tower around Muslim Quarters, Hampi
Around the Nobleman’s quarter is the Muhammadan watch-tower, evening sunlight is giving golden bath to its projected balcony and the arched shape openings. I imprint the glow in my memory and capture it on the memory-card of camera too. This structure is massive and looks more like a bastion than a watch-tower.
Muslim Quarters, Hampi
Only a couple of minutes later we are at the entrance of the Islamic Quarters of the empire. The auto-wallah realizes that we have not visited it and does not mind taking a break here.
This enclosure has a mosque, a tomb, an octagonal well, the watch tower and a band-stand tower.
The Mosque in the Muslim Quarters of Hampi
The mosque in the complex is believed to be built by Ahmad Khan, a military officer under Devaraya II, in 1439.
The mosque is rather plain with squat columns, a large, high-pillared hall with a prayer niche. In-fact the prayer niche helped experts to confirm it being a mosque as some other experts refuted the claim pointing towards its orientation towards North and its architecture that is a hybrid Indo-Muslim architecture.
The mosque is open from only one side and has flat roof – this style being known as Deccani style.
The other monuments in the Muslim Quarters of Hampi
The nearby tomb has arched niches and a dome. The vast space between the walled enclosures is believed to be the Idgah Maidan. The two-story hexagonal bandstand tower is near the south wall of the enclosure. There are stairs on one of its side to go up too. Upper story has alternate rectangular and arched windows. It is topped with multi-layered dome.
The Secular Fact of the conflict between the Vijayanagara Rayas and the surrounding Sultans
Well, most of the historians portray the Rayas as the icon of Hindu resistance towards the Muslim invaders, but a section of other historians argues that the animosity between the adjoining empires had nothing to do with their religion. It was the enmity between neighboring head of states, one of whom was Hindu and the others were Muslims, and that’s all about the religious angle.
As an argument they point out that the Muslim traders from Arab preferred trading with Rayas than with the Sultans. Not only that, lots of Muslim fighters were employed by the Rayas as mentioned in the travelogues of foreign visitors and the presence of this Islamic quarters having Mosque and Tombs.
Muslim Mercenaries in the Vijayanagara Army
The Muslim mercenary from Turkey and Persia were considered as excellent horsemen and hence got easy employment with Rayas in the cavalry as the soldiers and also as trainers.
Some of these fierce warriors also held important position in the Vijayanagar army. It is believed that Devaraya II used to carry a copy of Koran with him and was ever ready to take Muslim fighters in his services after an oath of loyalty.
The Rayas also adopted the sartorial fashion from W. Asia and the Turkish and Arabic figures were engraved on temple pillars. Even Krishnadevaraya adopted titles like Hinduraya Suratrana – Sultan among the Hindu kings”.
Underground Shiva Temple, Hampi
The last stop of the day is the “Under-ground Shiva Temple.” There is still daylight and I feel that we would be able to visit it as well. As we reach there, to my disappointment, the gates are closed. Sigh! Can’t help it.
But the helpful auto-wallah is all determined to maximize this trip with him. He comes out of his auto and points towards a gap in the barbed wire. He lifts one side of it and directs us to enter in.
Architecture of the Underground Shiva Temple, Hampi
The temple complex covers a large area. The entrance is from a massive, east facing gopuram devoid of any brick super-structure. From here, we take a few steps down to reach the pillared corridor that leads to Garbhgrih.
The core of the temple is fourteenth century, but a lot of additions were done here later as well, making it a labyrinth of different architectural styles.
Its pillars are simple, austere, devoid of any carvings. The temple has Mahamandapa, Ardhamandapa, Antaralya and Garbhgrih. This temple is constructed below ground level and most of the times, it is flooded with water from near-by fields. Its roof is at ground level and the temple lamp-post protrude through the roof.
The temple was once partially buried and only main entrance was visible. It was fully excavated by the ASI in 1976-1980. The main deity of the temple was “Prasanna Virupaksha. Though there is still ample sunlight outside but inside it is dark. We wade through stagnant water to reach Garbhgrih and also notice a Nandi there. There is a smell of bat-droppings. The Garbhagrih is empty.
Was the Underground Shiva Temple, Hampi in-fact a private temple of the Royals
The proximity of the Shiva temple to the royal quarters give birth to the belief that possibly this temple was a royal temple exclusively used by the royals. It also signifies the devotion of Vijayanagar’s Rayas towards Lord Virupkasha.
An inscription found in the temple premises indicates that Krishnadevaraya donated Nagalpura and other villages to the temple, so the villagers can worship and make offerings for the merit of his parent Narsa-Nayaka and NagajiDevi. Well, this inscription and the first fact about it being a royal temple contradicts each other. The way it is devoid of any beautiful carvings make me doubt about it being an only-royals temple.
The reason for the water inside the Under-ground Shiva Temple, Hampi
We are soon out of the temple, and find it much better outside. The temple structure is surrounded by well-maintained Green-lawns and a water canal is visible around the temple.
It is believed that the water inside the temple is of the River Tungabhadra that once washed the feet of devotees with its water. But the drainage to bring out the water outside is blocked, leading to the stagnant water in the temple. During monsoon time, the inside of the temple is flooded and the temple almost becomes inaccessible.
About the temple complex of Under-ground Shiva Temple, Hampi
In the temple-complex one can also see a small Amman shrine and a Kalyanamandapa. The Kalyanmandapa’s pillar are beautifully carved, signifying its later addition to the complex.
Was the Under-ground Shiva Temple, Hampi secretly connected to the underground secret chamber of the royal complex
I also heard a theory of this under-ground temple being connected to the underground secret chamber of the royal complex; personally I feel that the only reason for this theory is due to a common belief that most of the kingdoms used to have secret passages and the two structures are below the ground.
The List of my unethical acts in Hampi
As we head-out there is a feeling of contentment that even in these last hours we are able to see few more important monuments that further enriches us.
Though there is a minor caveat here, entering through the barbed wire increased Tanmay’s list of unethical acts of Papa. It all started with a visit to the zenana complex without ticket, violating No photography rule in Veerbhadra temple and now trespassing in the underground Shiva temple.
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