- The foundation of Vijayanagara Empire
- The history and the mythological story of Hampi
- Octagonal bath, Saraswati Temple and Chandrashekara Temple in Hampi
- Queen’s Bath, in Hampi
- Mahanavami Dibba, Hampi
- The Audience Hall and the Tanks and Baths of the Royal Quarters, Hampi
- Hazara Rama Temple, Hampi
- The Elephant Stable and the Guards room, Hampi
- The Zenana Quarters, Hampi
- Krishna Temple, Hampi
- Uddana Veerabhadra and the Chandikesvara Temple, Hampi
- Noblemen’s and Muslim Quarters, and the Underground Shiva Temple, Hampi
- The Monuments of Hemakuta Hill, Hampi
- The statue of Lord Narasimha and His never ending stories, Hemakuta hill, Hampi
- Virupaksha Temple, Hampi
- Kannappa Nayanar
- Malyavanta Hill, Hampi
- Vijaya Vittala Temple, Hampi – The Architectural Show-piece of Vijayanagar Empire
- Hampi Trivia
- Roaming around, in Hampi
- Coracle Ride on the river Tungabhadra, Hampi
- River Side Sculptures along Tungabhadra at Chakratirtha, Hampi
- A photo-feature on Ancient Kampa Bhupa Path in Hampi
This article is about my experiences of Coracle Ride in the Tungabhadra River in Hampi – Clean-Serene waters, monuments around and history of coracles.
After visiting the Virupaksha temple, we walk towards the Hampi Bazaar. In case you are thinking that probably we are walking towards the main market of Hampi – the Hampi Bazaar, let me clarify.
The Hampi bazaar was once the main market of the Virupakshapura, the village surrounding Virupaksha temple; These days one only finds the ruins of this-once magnificent bazaar.
At the eastern end of this bazaar, we see a gigantic-monolithic bull, which is locally known as Yeduru Basavanna, carved on a raised platform just below the hill. The name Yeduru Basavanna meaning the stone-nandi (Basavanna) facing the lord Shiva (Yeduru); as this stone idol of Nandi is facing the Virupaksha Temple.
Walking towards Chakratirtha, Hampi for the Coracle Ride
The agenda is to go for a coracle ride, so we don’t make a detour towards the statue, instead we walk on a path that move towards left. Now, River Tungabhadra is on our left and the boulders of Matanga hill are towards our right.
This path takes us from a tunnel under huge rock formation. At the exit we see a statue of a person carved on the stone there. Later we learn that it is the statue of Kempa-Bhupa, who created this way by cutting the boulders.
Why places where rivers turn north are considered sacred?
As soon as we cross this underpass we are at Chakratirtha. This is the place where Tungabhadra river takes a turn towards north. The places where river water turns towards north are considered sacred.
Most of the south Indian rivers take origin in the eastern or the western ghats and flows either towards east or towards west emptying themselves in Arabian sea or the Bay-of-Bengal.
Rivers flowing northwards are rare and because Kashi is in the north, so the spots where river takes a turn towards north are considered holy. This is the reason for this place to be considered the holiest bathing ghat on the river.
Legend why places where rivers turn north are considered sacred
There is another reason for the Northward turn of river being considered sacred. It is believed that in Vamanavataram, when Lord Vishnu raised his leg to cover the sky, Lord Brahma worshiped his lotus feet pouring water over it.
The water ran along his left foot, descended on earth to become Ganga, and this holy water meandered towards North. From then onward, places where river water flows towards North are considered sacred.
This is the reason why usually temples faces east and the snouts from which the holy water from the ablution of deities flows out, faces North.
Chakratirtha in Mythology
According to mythology, Chakrathirtha is the place where Lord Vishnu worshiped Lord Shiva and got his Sudarshana-Chakra as the boon.
I see another reason for the belief too. It is said that during Monsoon Season, the water in Tungabhadra rises up to adjacent temple boundaries and the swirl of water is so strong that it appears like Sudarshan-Chakra.
A signage here warns even the expert swimmers not to attempt swimming at this point, even if the surface of the water appears calm, placid and inviting. It warns that there are strong undercurrent that may drown even the strongest of expert swimmers.
Kodandarama Temple at Chakratirtha and mythology associated
Kodandarama Temple faces the Chakrathirtha, there is a deep-stambha and a pepul-tree in front of it. In south, under most of the peepul-trees, devotees leave many naag-kaals idols under them, the same is true here as well.
This temple also has mythological significance and it is believed that Lord Rama crowned Sugriva here after killing Bali. This temple is build over a boulder that has Ram-Sita-Lakshmana carved over it, and instead of Hanuman, Sugriva can be seen in attendance. As per another belief, the carvings of Ram-Lakshmana and Sita were carved by Sugriva himself.
Negotiating the Coracle Ride, Hampi
We are here for the coracle ride, and so I start negotiating the price for the ride. There is a middle man for negotiation of the coracle fare; he is not agreeing for a reasonable fare, although I notice the boatman pressing him clandestinely to agree for the fare I was requesting.
On my side, Tanmay is doing the same. He fears, if negotiations fail, I may decide not to take ride and hence he is also signalling at me quietly to agree to the price the middle man was quoting. With folks on both side willing to compromise, finally we all agree to a reasonable price and we go with the boatman in his coracle.
How Coracle Boats are made?
These coracles are known as Teppa or Harigolu in Kannada. To my touristic eyes, they appear very beautiful. Indian Coracles exist since prehistoric times.
The basic framework of these light, half-walnut shape boats is done using strips of bamboo-sticks. The same bamboo stick frame-work is taken to the sides of the boat as well. Caution is taken while constructing these boats so that the sides should not be heavier than the bottom.
The bottom of these boats is covered with animal hide to make it leak-proof. It is further leak-proofed using coconut oil. These days plastic or tar is used as an alternative to coconut oil and it usually takes around a day to construct these boats.
The boatman propel these coracles from the front of the boat towards the direction of the travel using a single paddle. These boats are ideal for fishing as an experienced boatman can steer it with one hand in a non-intrusive manner for the aquatic life and use another hand to throw net in the water.
Coracle Ride in Hampi during Vijayanagara Empire
These rides were there at the time of the Vijayanagar empire as well. In-fact the traveler writers to the Vijayanagar empire described the coracle rides as follows:
“People cross the Tungabhadra river in boats which are round. Inside they are made of cane and outside they are covered with leather. These boats can carry approx. 15-20 persons and even horses and oxen can cross in them, if necessary. But most of the part these animals swim across. Men row them with a sort of paddle and the boats are always turning around, as they cannot go straight like others. In all the kingdom, where there are streams, there are no other boats but these …
Experiences of Coracle ride in Tungabhadra River, Hampi
The coracle-ride in the clean waters of Tungabhadra, surrounded by boulders, is a wonderful experience. On the shores we see beautiful rock-formations. There are some ancient structures too. The man-made and ancient structures are making the surroundings picturesque.
Visiting a devi-temple at Tungabhadra Shore
We request the boat-man to take us closer to the bank where there is a Devi-Temple. This ride has made this temple accessible to us. We want to look inside, but the boatman warns us of slippery stones, still allow us to de-board and to sneak inside for a couple of minutes.
The temple has a devi-statue and on the side-walls two royal figures are carved. Somehow, the association of secluded temples with tantric cults make me not so comfortable.
Categories of Devi Statues
The statues of the deities are generally classified in four categories: Yoga-Murthi, Bhoga Murthi, Veera Murthi and Abhicharika Murthi.
Yoga-form of deities are worshiped by one aspiring to be a yogi. Bhoga Murthi are worshiped by all and the purpose is to give happiness to all worshipers. Veera form of deities are worshiped for physical power by the devotees and Abhicharika form is worshiped for the purpose of inflicting death and defeat on enemies.
Discovering a Coracle-Tunnel, Hampi
We are soon rowing again. This time he takes us to another side of the river where the swirling water has crafted a natural tunnel for the coracle, by continuously striking against these massive hills and breaking these underneath.
What a perfect place to hide with coracle. We enjoy some peaceful time here.
The swirling Coracle Ride, Hampi
And then the boatman prepares us for the final swirl, with his experienced hands he rotates the coracle; first gently and then at a high speed. It was a great-fun with some dizzying effect.
Time to return. The setting evening sun is engulfing the surroundings in its warm golden rays. The boat-ride has given us a serene atmosphere to enjoy and reflect. I realize, many a times, I do things for kids but ends up enjoying them myself too. This ride is also among one of them.
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