Coracle Ride on the river Tungabhadra, Hampi

This article is about my experiences of Coracle Ride in the Tungabhadra River in Hampi – Clean-Serene waters, monuments around and history of coracles.

After visiting the Virupaksha temple, we walk towards the Hampi Bazaar. In case you are thinking that probably we are walking towards the main market of Hampi – the Hampi Bazaar, let me clarify.

The Hampi bazaar was once the main market of the Virupakshapura, the village surrounding Virupaksha temple; These days one only finds the ruins of this-once magnificent bazaar.

hampi Bazaar
Hampi Bazaar; At the far end of the street is Yeduru Basavanna (the giganitic monolithic bull)

At the eastern end of this bazaar, we see a gigantic-monolithic bull, which is locally known as Yeduru Basavanna, carved on a raised platform just below the hill. The name Yeduru Basavanna meaning the stone-nandi (Basavanna) facing the lord Shiva (Yeduru); as this stone idol of Nandi is facing the Virupaksha Temple.

walking towards Chakratirtha
Walking towards ChakraTirtha, Hampi

Walking towards Chakratirtha, Hampi for the Coracle Ride

The agenda is to go for a coracle ride, so we don’t make a detour towards the statue, instead we walk on a path that move towards left. Now, River Tungabhadra is on our left and the boulders of Matanga hill are towards our right.

This path takes us from a tunnel under huge rock formation. At the exit we see a statue of a person carved on the stone there. Later we learn that it is the statue of Kempa-Bhupa, who created this way by cutting the boulders.

walking towards Chakratirtha
In the tunnel, walking towards Chakratirtha, Hampi
walking towards Chakratirtha
The carving of Kampa-Bhupa, welcoming fellow devotees at Chakratirtha

Why places where rivers turn north are considered sacred?

As soon as we cross this underpass we are at Chakratirtha. This is the place where Tungabhadra river takes a turn towards north. The places where river water turns towards north are considered sacred.

Most of the south Indian rivers take origin in the eastern or the western ghats and flows either towards east or towards west emptying themselves in Arabian sea or the Bay-of-Bengal.

Rivers flowing northwards are rare and because Kashi is in the north, so the spots where river takes a turn towards north are considered holy. This is the reason for this place to be considered the holiest bathing ghat on the river.

Clean and serene Tungabhadra River
Chakratirtha, Tungabhadra turning towards North

Legend why places where rivers turn north are considered sacred

There is another reason for the Northward turn of river being considered sacred. It is believed that in Vamanavataram, when Lord Vishnu raised his leg to cover the sky, Lord Brahma worshiped his lotus feet pouring water over it.

The water ran along his left foot, descended on earth to become Ganga, and this holy water meandered towards North. From then onward, places where river water flows towards North are considered sacred.

This is the reason why usually temples faces east and the snouts from which the holy water from the ablution of deities flows out, faces North.

Clean and serene Tungabhadra River
Tungabhadra

Chakratirtha in Mythology

According to mythology, Chakrathirtha is the place where Lord Vishnu worshiped Lord Shiva and got his Sudarshana-Chakra as the boon.

I see another reason for the belief too. It is said that during Monsoon Season, the water in Tungabhadra rises up to adjacent temple boundaries and the swirl of water is so strong that it appears like Sudarshan-Chakra.

A signage here warns even the expert swimmers not to attempt swimming at this point, even if the surface of the water appears calm, placid and inviting. It warns that there are strong undercurrent that may drown even the strongest of expert swimmers.

Chakratirtha, Hampi
A picture of Chakratirtha with Kodandrama Temple, Hampi

Kodandarama Temple at Chakratirtha and mythology associated

Kodandarama Temple faces the Chakrathirtha, there is a deep-stambha and a pepul-tree in front of it. In south, under most of the peepul-trees, devotees leave many naag-kaals idols under them, the same is true here as well.

This temple also has mythological significance and it is believed that Lord Rama crowned Sugriva here after killing Bali. This temple is build over a boulder that has Ram-Sita-Lakshmana carved over it, and instead of Hanuman, Sugriva can be seen in attendance. As per another belief, the carvings of Ram-Lakshmana and Sita were carved by Sugriva himself.

coracles, Hampi
Chakratirtha, Hampi

Negotiating the Coracle Ride, Hampi

We are here for the coracle ride, and so I start negotiating the price for the ride. There is a middle man for negotiation of the coracle fare; he is not agreeing for a reasonable fare, although I notice the boatman pressing him clandestinely to agree for the fare I was requesting.

On my side, Tanmay is doing the same. He fears, if negotiations fail, I may decide not to take ride and hence he is also signalling at me quietly to agree to the price the middle man was quoting. With folks on both side willing to compromise, finally we all agree to a reasonable price and we go with the boatman in his coracle.

Coracles, Hampi
The coracles of Hampi

How Coracle Boats are made?

These coracles are known as Teppa or Harigolu in Kannada. To my touristic eyes, they appear very beautiful. Indian Coracles exist since prehistoric times.

The basic framework of these light, half-walnut shape boats is done using strips of bamboo-sticks. The same bamboo stick frame-work is taken to the sides of the boat as well. Caution is taken while constructing these boats so that the sides should not be heavier than the bottom.

The bottom of these boats is covered with animal hide to make it leak-proof. It is further leak-proofed using coconut oil. These days plastic or tar is used as an alternative to coconut oil and it usually takes around a day to construct these boats.

Coracle Ride, Hampi
Coracle, Hampi

The boatman propel these coracles from the front of the boat towards the direction of the travel using a single paddle. These boats are ideal for fishing as an experienced boatman can steer it with one hand in a non-intrusive manner for the aquatic life and use another hand to throw net in the water.

Coracle Ride in Hampi during Vijayanagara Empire

These rides were there at the time of the Vijayanagar empire as well. In-fact the traveler writers to the Vijayanagar empire described the coracle rides as follows:

“People cross the Tungabhadra river in boats which are round. Inside they are made of cane and outside they are covered with leather. These boats can carry approx. 15-20 persons and even horses and oxen can cross in them, if necessary. But most of the part these animals swim across. Men row them with a sort of paddle and the boats are always turning around, as they cannot go straight like others. In all the kingdom, where there are streams, there are no other boats but these …

Boulders, Hampi
A precariously placed rock on Matanga Hill, Hampi

Experiences of Coracle ride in Tungabhadra River, Hampi

The coracle-ride in the clean waters of Tungabhadra, surrounded by boulders, is a wonderful experience. On the shores we see beautiful rock-formations. There are some ancient structures too. The man-made and ancient structures are making the surroundings picturesque.

Coracle Ride, Hampi
Eye-catching natural rock carvings, Hampi

Visiting a devi-temple at Tungabhadra Shore

We request the boat-man to take us closer to the bank where there is a Devi-Temple. This ride has made this temple accessible to us. We want to look inside, but the boatman warns us of slippery stones, still allow us to de-board and to sneak inside for a couple of minutes.

Coracle Ride, Hampi
A small Temple on the shore, Hampi has many such scattered hidden jewels

The temple has a devi-statue and on the side-walls two royal figures are carved. Somehow, the association of secluded temples with tantric cults make me not so comfortable.

Categories of Devi Statues

The statues of the deities are generally classified in four categories: Yoga-Murthi, Bhoga Murthi, Veera Murthi and Abhicharika Murthi.

Yoga-form of deities are worshiped by one aspiring to be a yogi. Bhoga Murthi are worshiped by all and the purpose is to give happiness to all worshipers. Veera form of deities are worshiped for physical power by the devotees and Abhicharika form is worshiped for the purpose of inflicting death and defeat on enemies.

Devi Statue, Hampi
The sculpture of devi with carvings of a royal couple on side. Hampi

Discovering a Coracle-Tunnel, Hampi

We are soon rowing again. This time he takes us to another side of the river where the swirling water has crafted a natural tunnel for the coracle, by continuously striking against these massive hills and breaking these underneath.

What a perfect place to hide with coracle. We enjoy some peaceful time here.

Coracle Ride, Hampi
The natural rock formation creating a place to hide for the coracle. Hampi
Coracle Ride, Hampi
The big coracle is completely inside the rock formation, Hampi
Coracle Ride, Hampi
This might be a good place to hide during sudden downpour, Hampi

The swirling Coracle Ride, Hampi

And then the boatman prepares us for the final swirl, with his experienced hands he rotates the coracle; first gently and then at a high speed. It was a great-fun with some dizzying effect.

Time to return. The setting evening sun is engulfing the surroundings in its warm golden rays. The boat-ride has given us a serene atmosphere to enjoy and reflect. I realize, many a times, I do things for kids but ends up enjoying them myself too. This ride is also among one of them.

Coracle Ride, Hampi
Chakratirtha, Hampi
Coracle Ride, Hampi
Glowing in warm setting sun, Chakratirtha, Hampi

Click here to read about Hampi and its mythology

Click Here to read more article about the offbeat things we did in Hampi

Series Navigation<< Roaming around, in HampiRiver Side Sculptures along Tungabhadra at Chakratirtha, Hampi >>

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